Lolita Lempicka et al. (Lolita Lempicka)

When reading reviews online for Lolita Lempicka's eponymous scent, one comparison will no doubt stand out - Angel. If you haven't tried LL, I'll agree that technically speaking, it definitely falls beneath Angel and the new subcategory it created, however, it lacks Angel's balls, so to speak, and is a lovely, wearable scent that is hugely popular for a reason.

LL has a fun, 3-tiered composition. Starting with a candied licorice, the progression dries out significantly when the heart becomes prominent, and at this stage appears the most "masculine" with the patchouli taking centre stage. The drydown is fluffier and returns some of the sweetness with an almond-biscuit undertone. I'm sure there are florals in here, but none are overtly evident to my nose, other than the dryness that violet-aromachemicals bring.

As with any successful scent, LL has several thousand flankers. I've yet to try them all, but the few that are on shelves at the moment are okay, but as usual, add nothing to the brilliance of the original. For some reason, possibly to avoid confusion (although it only increases it), Lempicka decided to rebrand LL as "Le Premiere Parfum" or "The First Fragrance".

Along with the new name, they added an Eau de Toilette flanker, which is lighter, as expected, with a lot of citrus and an interesting iris note. Very well done. The bottle for this one now has a little bite taken out of it, which I happen to think is darling.

LL Midnight is, as expected, darker and richer than the original, but I rather think the original was dark enough, so Midnight seems redundant and "thick", like a prune-flavoured cough syrup.

Forbidden Flower/Fleur Defendu, in its Granny Smith green bottle, comes across not so much more floral as more fruity that the original. Not awful, but again, not an improvement by any means. Definitely worth trying if you like apples.

The latest (which hasn't hit the shelves here), Eau de Beaute, appears to be more of a body product, and claims to contain things like "violet extract". To my knowledge, violet extract/oil is very rare and expensive, and not something I have ever come across. The likelyhood of it being in a mass-market fragrance are poor at best. I do happen to like the idea of a moisturizing perfume though, as Hermes did with their wonderful Eaux d'Abandonce.

Year: 1997
Perfumer: Annick Menardo
Notes: Aniseed, Ivy, Violet, Tonka Bean, Amarena Cherry, Vanilla, Praline, Musk.


  1. I just impulse-bought a bottle of last year's limited edition version in the black bottle, on discount. It adds myrrh and jasmine to the usual mix and I was having a moment with it. Smells great but unfortunately it doesn't last on skin -- "Eau de Minuit" must be a misprint for "Eau de minute" ....

  2. Oy...I wish Minuit only lasted a minute when I tested it...I couldn't get the stuff to die.

  3. This stuff is called Lolita Lempicka Black Couture Eau de Minuit -- I think it's an entirely different formula from the regular midnight one, but I couldn't swear to it. I'll have to wash my clothes in it to get it to stick.

    1. Ah yes, yet another flanker. Hard to keep up!


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