
I see this question often on the frag-forums:
"Looking for a suggestion for something (insert adjective here). Niche only pls".
Cost should never be considered an indication of quality in fragrance, but there are still those who insist that if something is readily available, it musn't be as desirable as the rare and hard-to-find things sold on the luxury market. I myself have often been caught in this trap. Limited-edition, Paris-exclusive, and various other catchphrases make the buyer believe they're getting more for their money. Alas, they often are not.
You'll often read me, and many others, state a preference for "quality of ingredients". What does this mean exactly? Well, simply put, a better grown plant in an ideal atmosphere will yield a superior oil. This has nothing to do with price, however, so it should not necessarily be reflected in the price of the end-product. Things like patchouli, vetiver, and lavender are all relatively inexpensive ingredients, yet a superior plant will ultimately lead to a better and more refined smelling extract...yet still for not much money. It is the perfumer's responsibility to select the best/most appropriate, yet there are too many examples of decent compositions using the wrong ingredient that plague the market. Naturally, ingredients are not the only factor in creating a beautiful perfume, just as using better quality paint won't necessarily equate to a more beautiful painting.
When it comes to access of ingredients, the big players have the upper hand. They have the budget to buy in large quantities, and in some cases, even own the field where the ingredients are grown. Your local uber-luxe niche company will no doubt have to pay more for the same ingredients, and thus create a higher end-price for the user. Now, I'm not saying that the latest Calvin Klein uses the same, or better, ingredients than the latest Delrae, but in essence, they could if it weren't for that pesky finance committee getting in the way.
There are a few examples of small/niche companies who partner up with large production companies for access to the best of the best at an accessible price, which is why companies like Etat Libre d'Orange remain an oft-suggested brand coming from my mouth. Not only do you get the brilliance of their creative direction, you get a higher quality product at a reasonable price.
I will admit, however, that I too am a perfume snob...but not because of cost. I scoff when I read someone ranting from one extreme to the other - uber-pricey Creed getting rave reviews will get the same reaction from me as someone fawning over Bath & Body Works, not because of their prices, but because they both create an inferior product. So I will henceforth continue to raise my nose in the air, but for different reasons than others. Perfume is not solely about art or about material...there is a fine balance that must be met to create something worth wearing.
/rant
All the best to you and yours for the upcoming holiday season!
Dane
Nice post. It's funny, I'm inclined to think that things sold for $9 at Marshalls are sometimes of equal quality to $150 niche fragrances. Halston is one example - I never see Z-14 or 1-12 for anything more than $10 for 3.4 ounces, and they're totally respectable and well-made classics. The problem for them seems to be one of low demand; people are only interested in buying what they perceive to be in style (i.e. recognizable) and thus anything else is an afterthought. A shame for them - good for me. I can wear something good like 1-12 without fearing that someone else is wearing it, too.
ReplyDeleteIn regards to Creed though . . . I have found precious few that I like enough to own, but really I think the majority of them are simply not my style. I don't feel they're of inferior quality in any way. They all seem to boast excellent note separation, all are solid compositions (sometimes a little too solid), and they always get compliments. The only one I felt was truly abysmal was Acqua Fiorentina. And that one is extremely popular! Again, not my style. But to each his own.
NO! not a Snob...
ReplyDeleteI prefer "SOPHISTICATED" perhaps...even "Hedonistic"
One develops a much educated and discerning "nose" after sometime
that ....lets say DEPARTMENT STORE & Main Stream Designer Fragrances..
can no longer give us.....
Along with the uniqueness of not ... being like the soooooo many other shoppers....
we look to be educated.. to be challenged.. to be surprised and delighted
.....and NICHE or BOUTIQUE perfumery.. emparts...that for us.
I like to give you an example......
like food... when one diserns their love for ...
lets say the BEST BURGER in town...does that make them arrogant.. No!
just a "Foodie"
A "Foodie" is "someone who has an ardent or refined interest in food."
In previous decades, words like "epicure" or "gourmet" were used to apply to the same type of person
The words are out of favor now,
and bring to mind stodgy, snobbish people who are only willing
to consider a restaurant that has truffled pate on the menu
or will only go to this restaurant...because this certain Chef
is now in fashion but not that other one.
A foodie will never answer the question "What are you eating" with "I don't know."
There are some basic traits of being a foodie, as there are basic traits that come with all labels.
Generally, you have to know what you like, why you like it, recognize why some foods are better
than others and want to have good tasting food all or certainly most of the time.
This doesn't mean that you can't eat flaming hot Cheetos every now and again,
but it does mean that you don't fool yourself into thinking that it's a nutritionally balanced meal.
Do you have to know the difference between a beefsteak tomato and an heirloom tomato?
No, but you might be interested to find out what it is.
Do you have to only shop at farmer's markets? No, but you still look for good, fresh produce.
Are there some foods you just don't like or weird foods you like?
That's ok - it doesn't make you any less of a foodie.
Just as any good student will have a thirst for knowledge, a foodie wants to learn about food and, most importantly, eat good food and price is relative to the experience.
Well .....Niche Perfumes ....
do just that....
Just as any good student will have a thirst for knowledge,
a Fragrance Niche buyer
wants to learn about Fragrance
and, most importantly, have that fragrance be unique or consist of rare quality ingredients and price is relative to the experience.
Serge Lutens is my fave and go to NICHE PERFUMERY
for the rare and unusual HEDONISTIC experience I want....
Aldo, I understand why Dane uses the word "snob".
ReplyDeleteIt's because, even if we all know the tricks, we can't help the word "exclusive" triggers our attention.
For example, it's hard to me to resist expensive perfume at bargain price on ebay.
I'm not talking about obvious rip-off. (Creeds? Byredo?)
We know half of exclusive Lutens, and niche perfumes, to be blah.
But we can't help thinking about them, "is the emperor naked?". It's funny of crazy price can turn "not so good" perfume into interesting ones.
So, by "snob", we blame our on stupidity, even if we know it is a side-effect of our curiosity, which is a quality.
It's like buying unsniffed some vintage on the net, we shout "Never! never again!" like under bad hangover, but the next time, here we go again :D
These are the little temptation of the perfume lover.
Byredo is for example overpriced...Kilian, well, maybe he has justified price. MAYBE! Because of ingredients. I think that the price unconceusly reflects on us, the matter of psychology.
ReplyDeletehttp://bleauog.blogspot.com/