By Thomas
Believe it or not, my first blind buy was nearly Creed’s Cuir de Russie. For all the rapture on Basenotes, I still balked at the high cost, the huge flacon, and not knowing what it smelled like. Boy, how times have changed. Fortunately I got a sample, and decided it wasn’t full-flacon-worthy.
Enter The Gentleman’s Quarter – maker of artisanal shaving soaps. TGQ has introduced their first two extraits and I cadged (okay, bought) samples of each. Leatherneck is the first to be reviewed, because I didn’t think it would be all that wonderful: the site’s description has no notes mentioned at all.
What does it smell like? Well, it smells like Creed Cuir de Russie, with a few changes. Actually – take the love child of CdR and Hermes Bel Ami, and you’d be pretty darn close. After a few good wearings, I put the two side-by-side and teased out a few differences.
Cuir de Russie starts out with a stronger citrus note, and keeps a floral distance – aloof, if you will – as the birch tar develops. Somewhat patrician in its own stinky way. Leatherneck, on the other hand, is pared back a bit, more woodsy/spicy, a bit resinous (Myrrhe?), alongside the birch tar. A bit of earth under the fingernails, more easily approachable in my opinion. Eventually we wind up with a sandalwood drydown not far from Bel Ami: still dry but friendly.
The biggest difference, though, is that Leatherneck lasts a heck of a lot longer – easily the entire day, sometimes into the following morning. Good throw – not overpowering, but pleasantly present. Cost is quite reasonable for an extrait. Better in cold weather, formal enough for black tie. I quite like this and a full bottle is in my near future.
pic: www.jeffreyreidbaker.com
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