By Dane
Unless you were around and buying perfume in the early 90's, you probably aren't familiar with Yvresse. YSL doesn't display it at their counters (in fact the sales associate any my local YSL counter hadn't even heard of it), and they hide it carefully on their website under the "classics" section. Quite a shame, because Yvresse really is one of their better offerings...a sort of Mitsouko boiled down to a concentrate.
Legend has it that the original title for Yvresse, Champagne, was changed due to the winemakers of the Champagne region staking their claim to the term. I've also read that Caron sold the rights to YSL from its Royal Bain de Champagne, only to have the Champagne folks steal it right back (source). On top of that, the original bottle with it's cutesy cork-like impressions seems to also have been vetoed along the way for a plainer (read: boring) interpretation.
The scent itself is something to behold. Sophia Grojsman's trademark stylings are all over this one...Tresor's syrupy apricots with a dash of Paris' rose, all modernized to a vivid accord that was unlike anything else at the time. We've since seen Yvresse used as inspiration for the likes of Le Feu d'Issey (rotten fruit accord) and Vraie Blonde (drunken topnotes), but Yvresse still manages to remain one of a kind.
Yvresse opens with a bubbly champagne-cocktail opening, followed by a peculiar floral-apricot heart, finishing with a slightly mossy chypre drydown. At one point the idea of rotting fruit is almost over-emphasized with a peculiar minty sensation...almost like a fermented, ammonia-like note. I admit that at first I found it a bit repulsive, but as with many disturbing elements, this ended up being my favourite part. Maybe I'm weird like that.
Get a bottle before YSL forgets about it completely.
Year: 1993
Perfumer: Sophia Grojsman
Notes: Nectarine, Rose, Patchouli, Oakmoss
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