PereDePierre: Boudoir (Vivienne Westwood)

Guest review by John

Whenever I see a designer scent, I can’t help but sniff it in connection with what I view as the “spirit” of the house that bears its name. Some, like Kingdom, Gucci Pour Homme, Helmut Lang Cuiron and Cologne, and Prada Amber seem to me to fit in perfectly with the house, blending into a scent the unique characteristics that make their fashion unique.

Add Boudoir to this list. Vivienne Westwood herself, with her flashing red hair and the tiny pair of silver devil’s horns she’s known to wear as accessories, creates fashion that is classic, yet rebellious, playful, yet also a little romantic, and always makes a strong impact… if not always in a pleasant, easy to wear way.

So, too, with Boudoir. It’s a strange scent from top to bottom, but you keep sniffing it and never quite feel it goes too far. At first, you feel like it is almost TOO sweet, almost cloying, then almost too powdery, then almost too funky, like something a smelly old woman (Vivienne?) might wear.

And yet, you never turn up your nose in disgust, but keep following it through. As for notes, it feels like it has many from the world of classic scents, like some of the old school Guerlains. But, as you sniff it, you realize it is like an “old school” scent in feeling only, for I don’t get civet or vanilla or sandalwood. Instead, I get some rose, tuberose, cinnamon, and definitely some amber. I also get something sort of smutty in there, though it might just be the spice of the cinnamon interacting with the other parts.

As well, Boudoir is one that continually gets me compliments, for reasons that are a complete mystery to me. When most people try to smell like freshly washed clothes or a bottle of grapefruit juice, this one is much more intimate, much closer to the skin, requiring much more warmth. If ever something needed a name like “Boudoir,” perhaps this one is it.

I definitely think it is worth at least a try. I actually can never really decide if I love it or just find it unique, but nevertheless on cool winter days, keep wearing it.

Finally, the bottle and packaging are beautiful, with a slightly rounded bottle and an oversized cap in the shape of the famous Westwood crown.

Year: 1998
Perfumer: Martin Gras
Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Hyacinth, , Orange Blossom, Jasmine, Rose, Narcissus, Carnation, Orris Root, Cardamom, Coriander, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tobacco Leaves, Cinnamon, Vanilla

2 comments:

The Left Coast NoseNov 28, 2009 06:52 AM
Hi there, John!

Your thoughtful post gets to the heart of one of the many mysteries surrounding scent: if you didn't have any advance "story" surrounding a fragrance (scent notes, bottle, ad campaign, name), what might you think of it? How much of what we smell is influenced by all of those external factors?

I run into this all the time, because I am far more tempted to buy a sample of something named "Lady Boy," rather than "Sandalwood." Sandalwood I know. "Lady Boy?" Need to get to know.

But... then how much of what you smell is put there by silly copy, photos, little silver horns on the bottle...?

Sometimes I close my eyes when I smell something new, and try a line-up of disparate connotations: "Does this smell like... Pamela Anderson? Angela Merkel? Robert Pattinson? Richard Simmons?"

And what would if meant if it did...?

Nice post.

Rita
John ClaytonNov 29, 2009 03:45 AM
Thanks, Rita, for the note. I agree with you that the scent might "change" without all the other fluff. However, for me, a parfum/fragrance is more than just the olfactory sensation. I tend to look at things altogether as a package, as a product, or as an encapsulation of what the parfumer or designer seems to be advancing about the way they "sniff" the world.

So, as a reviewer, I see Boudoir in connection with the house that bears its name, with its packaging, etc. as well as with the notes in the scent. I don't... and perhaps can't... divorce the two.

The packaging and the house get us started, help us to find a place to begin in the vast world of scent. Like a book published by a favorite author or from a publisher whose other books we like, it just helps us to get going. There is SO much out there, we can't sniff or read it all. Nevertheless, just because we liked the other books by that author, or publisher... the one we hold now might be an absolute dud.

So, I think that packaging and the "spirit" of a design house launching a fragrance are very important. That's why I really like houses that do it well, and get irritated at excellent design houses (like Jil Sander, for example) that put out lackluster, boring fragrances designed just to move units.