By Dane
After Mark's verbose review, I wasn't sure if I could add anything to the plate with my views of L'Eau d'Hiver, but I thought I'd give it a shot.
L'Eau d'Hiver is often compared with Jean-Claude Ellena's other work, Paul & Joe Blanc. You could also pass that comparison on to Bois Farine (L'Artisan). All have a sweet, almond-nutty accord that is both pale and radiant at the same time. Bois Farine takes the nuttiness to an extreme, while Blanc veers in a sweet, confection-like direction. L'Eau d'Hiver is the best of the lot in my opinion, adding a sunny twist and taming the unnecessary movements.
Ellena apparently said that this was his homage to Apres l'Ondee, and at first, I couldn't figure out what he meant by that...then I realized the major similarity - mimosa. Granted, mimosa isn't listed in the advertised notes for L'Eau d'Hiver, but the overall impression of almondy heliotrope, hawthorn, and carnation mixed with sunny citrus and a subtle, musky base add up to a striking resemblance. Apres l'Ondee is of course much more opulent, but Ellena's interpretation took my favourite elements and combined them in a way that is unmistakably "his style" (see how I avoided using the word "minimalist"?)
Once again I was fooled by one of the compositions in Malle's collection. What at first seemed simple and "been there done that", turned out to be one of the best in the line.
Year: 2003
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Notes: White Heliotrope, Iris, Honey, Bergamot, Angelica, Musk
Hi, Dane!! So, if I understand well (and I really hope so!): this has to be an alternative take on 'Une Fleur de Cassie'... right?
ReplyDeleteI'm seriously considering driving about 1hour and half just to test 'L'eau d'Hiver', to see if is what I'm getting from different reviewers.
I actually quite like cerulean, honeyed, almondy, milky, lactonic, marzipanesque scents as I never did before (it's been a bit strange)... and that's the question: I think it's UFdC's fault. I believe is connected with the floral note acacia farnesiana/mimosa that to my nose creates a sort of a marzipan illusion.
In fact, I'm wondering what the major differences between the two scents, I'd appreciate your thoughts about it.
PS-1: Dane, I'm surprised not to see a review of 'Le Parfum de Thèrese' here in this blog. Have you experienced it? To me it's probably the best of the FM's line (even though there's nothing in common with UFdC or L'Eau d'Hiver), just testing is highly reccomended to those who love chypres!
It is in the same general family as UFdC, but leans more toward the lighter, citrus accents. I would say UFdC is darker, more bizarre, and generally more floral, while LEDH is "easier", lighter, and more likable to the general public. I very much like L'Eau d'Hiver, but I *love* UFdC, so there definitely is something in common, but I can't guarantee you'll love one if you love the other. Definitely worth trying though!
ReplyDeleteAs far as Therese goes, I find it a slightly lackluster replacement for what Diorella used to smell like. It's not bad by any means, quite the contrary, but while old bottles of Diorella are still kicking around, I'd always recommend that first.
OK, so that was it :) You're right, only problem I see is that it's hard to find that Diorella (at least in my country, and even purchasing on the web)... Since vintage Diorella it's been discontinued I like to see LPdT as 'the former Diorella' itself (and that makes me happy). And well... I admit that I also find LPdT as the ultrafeminine version of the two, Diorella always was a little bit more unisex to my nose. But I've still got the memories. :)
ReplyDeleteI can figure out what you mean in the UFdC-LEDH thing. Not sure if 'more likable to the general public' would be what I'm looking for in a perfume, but yes to whatever that's 'easier' likable to me. And could be interesting even in terms of 'more wearable'. I love UFdC too, but beause of its dark & distinctive quality I find it far more suitable in special occasion. And sometimes love needs a holiday!
Thanks a lot.
Definitely you made me curious about L'Eau d'Hiver!