By Dane
Every perfumer has a signature. Many of the best perfumers in the world carry over ideas from one composition to another. Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon created an entire new genre with the creation of Feminite du Bois, subsequently moving this signature on to scents for Serge Lutens and Dior. The great Edmond Roudnitska created a signature with Eau Sauvage that went on to contribute to Diorella, Le Parfum de Therese, and even in the aid of Henri Robert's Cristalle. Maurice Roucel (Missoni, Be Delicious), Bertrand Duchaufour (Timbuktu, Dzongkha, Sienne l'Hiver) and Isabelle Doyen (Duel, Mandragore, Unicorn Spell) are just a handful of other prime examples.
Geza Schoen also fits into this category...sort of. Schoen seems to favour using overdoses of singular molecules (Iso E Super) as his signature. He's the creator of the notorious Escentric Molecules line, some of which include nothing more than one ingredient. Prior to this though, he created two scents for Clive Christian - X and 1872: overpriced powerhouses that come with heavy gold caps in tacky frocodile boxes. Shoen seems to have run out of ideas for the creation of Wode, and simply retooled these scents hoping no one would notice.
Why can the other perfumes mentioned above do this and create new, proper scents, while this is simply a rehash? Easy - their initial ideas were clever, whereas his was not. Adding a splash of Duchaufour's signature (specifically for Eau d'Italie) didn't help the matter any...and using disappearing blue dye in the juice only made the idea that much more trite.
Good work with the Ormonde Jayne line though!
Year: 2008
Perfumer: Geza Shoen
Notes: Juniper, Cardamon, Nutmeg, Clary Sage, Corriander, Angelica Root, Saffron, Tonka Bean, Styrax, Amber, Treemoss, Musk, Leather
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