lyrics by Joe South, as performed by Lynn Anderson
review by Mark
The rose is a powerful symbol throughout the world. At the same time, it is a complicated theme in perfumery, with multiple and contradictory connotations. In the West, the rose is generally considered feminine; yet in the Middle East, attar of roses has long been used as a scent by men. Shakespeare’s immortal line “that which we call a rose, by any other name would smell as sweet” is the reference for the idea of sweet-smelling roses; yet rose absolute, as used in perfumery, is not actually very sweet-smelling, but much earthier.
Une Rose is firmly in the earthy camp. An indolic rose, it is in the genre of The Different Company’s (original formulation of) Rose Poivrée, Le Labo’s Rose 31, and Diptyque’s (now evidently discontinued) Opone.
The top notes, besides smelling of a damp rose with dirt clinging to it, also feature some interesting harmonics. Honey that you can almost taste, and truffles, as advertised. The truffle accord is surprisingly well rendered. It is a hard scent to describe, but if you have cooked with truffle oil or eaten truffles, you will recognize it. And there is something else - I’ll just say it - I smell plastic. It’s not disagreeable, but it surprised me.
The honey and truffles fade away to be supplanted by a dry and spicy heart, in which I think I detect saffron, or perhaps cumin. The similarity to Opone is strong here.
In the drydown, the spices fade and are replaced by the wine dregs accord, which is also well rendered. The combination of rose and wine dregs is dry, dignified, and harmonious, and plays close to the skin.
Sweet or earthy, damp or dry, spicy or winy, I am not really a rose fan. They are OK to give to your SO on Valentine’s Day, but I don’t want to smell like them. Maybe it’s the Western upbringing. I also don’t like the pairing with saffron; I didn’t like Opone, either. Having said that, I think this is an interesting take, especially the honey-truffle-plastic harmonics in the opening, so if this sounds appealing to you, go for it, contradictions be damned. Or embraced.
Perfumer: Edouard Fléchier
Year: 2003
Notes: Turkish Rose absolute, Geranium, Wine dregs, Truffle accord, Woods, Animal notes.
Post a Comment
What? No Bette Midler? :P
ReplyDeleteThis is a beautiful perfume...no doubt about it. I once had a small 5ml bottle (how Malle once sized their samples) and it lasted years...I think I eventually gave it away 1/2 full. Potent stuff.
I do love this one, but rarely wear it. The wine dregs note is captivating...and intoxicating. I don't get the saffron so much in this, and I don't like Opone. This is a standout in the dark roses category.
ReplyDelete