By Thomas
Does anyone recall the t-shirts that sprung up around the time of Brad Pitt’s separation from Jennifer Aniston? There were two shirts: Team Aniston and Team Jolie, and the general impression that I took was that you liked one or the other – as they were diametrical opposites. What this says about our society and the need to “take sides” is a topic for another day.
But I was reminded of these t-shirts as I applied Une Rose Chyprée: On one hand we have the exemplar of modern perfumery, the scents of Jean-Claude Ellena: minimalist, transparent, approachable – the Jennifer Aniston of perfumery (note, will review Terre d’Hermes soon).
And then we have Andy Tauer. Never mind what I previously said about L’Air du Desert Marocain – Between Orris and now Une Rose Chyprée – Tauer seems to be hitting his stride as he composes wild rides of drama and luxury and well...ooomph!
Une Rose Chyprée is astonishingly lush and full, opening with the best rose note I’ve smelled from a bottle. It disappears after a few moments, but within 5 minutes or so it returns in full bloom, with a string section in tow. The usual chypre suspects are here in abundance: bergamot, lemon, some florals, but that rose...it dominates and lends a feel of hushed drama to the proceedings.
Into the heart, this scent remains velvety in texture, the rose remains persistent, but along with labdanum I also get some spicy/woody notes, plus a hint of carnation. I had originally thought that this part mimicked Ormonde Man, but in side-by-side comparisons, Une Rose Chyprée is more relaxed and easy-wearing.
About six hours later, the spicy-woody notes take center stage, with the rose fading a bit. This part is actually not far from Knize Ten, where the floral notes make their exit. Side-by-side, you can still tell them apart, but the differences are small. (wait...Thomas, I thought you hated Knize Ten...yes, well, Thomas has more crow to eat...but let’s save that for another time.)
Towards end-of-day, a touch of sweetness comes around, oakmoss (is this the real thing?) makes its entrance, and it’s a beaut. Vetiver and patchouli add a little rough texture to the scent and temper the drama.
The important parts: can I wear this and still feel manly? Ahem, yes. Can/should/would I wear this every day? No. Une Rose Chyprée is too...rich for daily wear IMHO, particularly in the summertime. Much like Lauder for Men, this one is a dressy production of a scent, a throwback to pageantry and drama. It sticks out from the rest of the perfume herd and makes a bold, brilliant statement.
Year: 2009
Perfumer: Andy Tauer
Notes: Rosa Damascena Absolute and Essential Oil, Bay, Cinnamon, Bergamot, Lemon, Clementine, Bourbon Geranium, Labdanum, Oak Moss, Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla
[Note: Une Rose Chypree will be available at Luckyscent.com and other retailers as of July 1.]
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Thomas -- I love your description.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't have thought that Une Rose Chypree would be your thing, but it's great to hear you sound so positive about such a lush, classic fragrance.
You'll have to let me know how it goes over at the office. ;)
Well, it's a big scent that creates an impression, which is more than I can say about a lot of the recent releases, particularly the summertime ghosts of scents past. I would be enthusiastic about it even if it weren't my cup of tea simply because it's bold and daring and coming at a time when the IFRA regulations threaten to tamp down modern perfumery.
ReplyDeleteAs for the office: I have my own office and deal mostly with women, so it's not like I'm dealing with athsmatic protractor-carrying engineers. However, none of the women here have offered to have my children though, so I guess it's not All That. :(