By Thomas
For all the fuss about bespoke suits and custom shirts, true style aficionados all share the same ideal: the well-dressed man is unforgettably well- presented, but no detail stands out. It parallels the general masculine ideal in that one is squared away, but no detail calls attention to itself.
That seems the appropriate way to consider Chanel Pour Monsieur. Everything else has a note or a theme (pine forest, barbershop, green apples), but PM is simply classical masculine ideal in a bottle.
The opening gives the first peek at what’s to come: the bergamot opens brightly for a few moments, before developing a spicy/resinous angle. Once the woody resin comes forth, the bergamot is no longer flying solo, but becomes part of a restrained dry amber-tinged harmony.
Restraint is a good word for Pour Monsieur, in all phases of development nothing pokes out or hits you over the head with “look at me” moments. About two hours in, the bergamot fades gently and the spices shift to accommodate some mildly animalic notes (labdanum), lending just a little more depth to the proceedings.
Hours later, we have a spicy-mossy-woody scent that is just tangy enough to keep your interest without hitting you over the head about how good it is. It’s an understated, unobtrusive scent that’s great when you notice it, but keeps out of your way when you’re otherwise occupied.
It feels almost criminal to deconstruct Pour Monsieur: taken in its entirety it is very satisfying, and pulling out individual notes is like taking apart a Swiss watch, such is the seamless nature of its construction. What does it smell like? It smells of Pour Monsieur. No watery seascapes, no leather saddles, no tropical drinks with umbrellas. No wonder it doesn’t get much play these days: everyone out there is fighting tooth and claw for shelf space and “mindshare”, while Chanel Pour Monsieur gracefully and quietly does his thing better than anyone else has for a long, long time now.
Year: 1955
Perfumer: Henri Robert
Notes: Neroli, Lemon, Petitgrain, Cardamom, Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver
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Nice review, especially the last paragraph. Pour Monsieur is definitely carefully made and has a distinguished style.
ReplyDeleteThis was okay when I tried it at Macy's, but by the time I got home I couldn't shake the feeling that I was wearing Lemon Pledge . . . and I thought lemon was supposed to be the fleeting top note.
ReplyDeletehey bryan- the one you tried was most likely pour monsieur CONCENTREE, which is NOTHING like the original plain eau de toilette... the concentree is quite poor in comparison... the original is not sold in the US... i happily just picked up a bottle last night... at a Chanel boutique in Hong Kong... ;)
ReplyDeleteSteven, you're absolutely correct. Macy's doesn't sell the original, only the Concentree. In fact, the original isn't even available in Chanel freestanding boutiques in the US because Chanel deemed the the original shouldn't be officially offered here. However, it's widely available online and it's worth seeking out. By today's standards, it's a very quiet and understated fragrance but one that every gentleman should have in his fragrance wardrobe. It's perfection.
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