Oud 27 (Le Labo)


photo from forestpathology.cfans.umn.edu
by Mark


A writer on another fragrance blog postulated the existence of the "deskankotron", a type of body chemistry that neutralizes civet, castoreum and other animalic scents. I believe I am in possession of a deskankotron (see my review of Muscs Khoublaï Khan.)

From the list of notes, and other reviewers' comments, I was hoping for some animalic skank in Oud 27, but as is so often the case with Le Labo, the labeling does not necessarily describe the fragrance.

Initial impression is of having just splashed on some Scotch Whisky; not an Islay, not a Highland, not a single malt at all, but maybe some Johnny Walker Black. If you are driving, going to work, going to court or going to meet your parole officer, you may want to put off wearing this for another day. The whisky phase is not fleeting.

When the whisky does recede, there is a raw leather reminiscent of ELDO Rien, but a bit more subdued. In fact, the whole thing submerges, and is a skin scent from there on out.

The drydown is a beautifully blended whisper in which I can barely discern the outlines of woods, incense, vetiver, patchouli and rose. The oud is in there somewhere, but if you are used to Montale's thick-enough-to-cut-with-a-knife oud, you may miss it. Faint though it is, the drydown phase smells terrific.

Not much throw, or maybe that's the deskankotron at work. In any case, this is weird in a way that I like, and I enjoy wearing it.

Year: 2009
Perfumer: Vincent Schaller
Notes: Agarwood, Aldehydes, Atlas Cedar, Incense, Patchouli, Black Pepper, Saffron, Vetyver, Gaiac, Civet, Musk, Rose Bulgare, Amber, Ambergris

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