photo print by Eric Wheater
review by Mark
Noir Epices was the first Frederic Malle fragrance I ever sniffed. I was reading up on the line, and NE's list of notes appealed to me, so when I had the opportunity, I sprayed some on a card and took it back to work with me. It was piercing, bright and loud, and while I admired it, I couldn't imagine wearing it; it was way too aggressive.
I kept the card for a couple of weeks, and sniffed it frequently, but my feeling never changed.
I long since learned not to trust what fragrances smell like on paper. What's odd is that Noir Epices' top notes smell exactly the same on my skin as on the card.
The opening of orange and geranium, heavily spiced with nutmeg, cinnamon, clove and pepper fairly screams. It is not heavy, but sharp... like spiced oranges turned to glass and shattered to splinters.
As the citrus dies down and the woods and patchouli come up, the effect is mitigated somewhat. The fragrance becomes warmer and softer, while remaining spicy. After a few hours, the edges are all but gone, and the effect is a slightly soapy melange of orange, clove and cinnamon. Not long after that, for all the ferocity of the opening, it has become a skin scent, a whisper of woods and patchouli with just a trace of the orange and spice remaining.
In like a lion and out like a lamb. I can admire this, but still find it challenging to wear.
Perfumer: Michel Roudnitska
Year: 2000
Notes: Orange, Geranium, Nutmeg, Cinnamon, Clove, Pepper, Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli
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Some years back, I received the first Malle sample set as a gift. At that time, I wasn't aware of the concept of spritzing, and waiting. I spritzed, and if it was "bug spray" I scrubbed. With the exception of Le Parfum de Therese, I, pretty much, hated them all. Luckily, I didn't toss the set, as I liked the look of it. Now, some years on, I am older and wiser, and have sniffed them all again. Musc Ravageur (I hated this) still challenged me, til just recently, and I bought a bottle. Noir Epices, I am unhappy to say, still a scrubber for me. Maybe next year...
ReplyDeleteNP has always been one of my favs from Malle...I think I overdid it though, as I never wear it anymore. 'Twas my "goin' out" scent. :P
ReplyDeleteWearing this fragrance was like loving Mata Hari. Beautiful and intriguing at first, but I was left with a heavy, cheap synthetic dimestore rose basenote that infused my bedroom, bathroom and office with a nauseating smell that was difficult to get rid of. I am not a fan of rose-based scents anyway, but particularly those that are fake; and all at a $200 price tag.
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