By Dane
CDG's Incense Series is extremely popular, and it's no wonder why...haunting scents, beautiful bottles, and a star-studded line-up of perfumers. When I first stumbled upon them, Ourzazate was the winner - an herbal, peppery incense that was easy to love. My next challenge in the line was Avignon, the stark, Catholic church number that slowly won me over. Today I'm testing Kyoto, possibly (probably?) the most popular selection from the series.
Kyoto was created (along with Avignon) by everyone's favourite nose, Bertrand Duchaufour. Looking back, I'm surprised I didn't chose this as my favourite right away when it has such a close relation to an old standby for me - Sequoia (from CDG's previous series). Kyoto takes the red fruit and wood combo a bit further and adds a chilly, transparent incense top note, which both adds to the scent, but also detracts from its some of its predecessor's uniqueness. I'm willing to forgive the difference though, as Kyoto truly radiates when worn.
Duchaufour's scents rank among some of my all-time favourites, and it's no wonder why. His Jubilation XXV is a complex masterwork of resins and woods; his Paestum Rose uses a transparent rose to highlight the incense-base; and his Patchouli Patch* throws everyone for a loop when the expected headshop topnote suddenly morphs into his signature style. No matter which of his creations you prefer, there's no doubt something for everyone.
Since I've played out Sequoia for all it's worth, Kyoto might make fill that gap nicely.
Side note - it's fascinating for me to see a perfumer's style evolve and regress. Duchaufour seems to have a few signature styles - the woody resins as described above (plus Aedes de Venustas, Timbuktu); the fruity (CDG Rhubarb); the modern-fresh (Fleur de Liane, Mint, Calamus, Magnolia Romana); and the piquant (Harissa, Cinnamon). These styles even cross paths now and then (Poivre Piquant had many similarities with Rhubarb). Interesting stuff.
*also credited to Evelyne Boulanger
Year: 2002
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
Notes: Incense, Cypress Oil, Coffee, Teak Wood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber, Everlasting Flower, Virginian Cedar
Pic: www.asianart.org
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