by Mark
I always pass by the Jo Malone displays in the department stores thinking they are room scents; the multitude of unassuming bottles with their simple names seem to insist on being part of the background. When an associate passed me a tester of 154, I was confused; I thought all the scents were designated by the names of their main ingredients. I sniffed the cap and decided to give it a try.
154 belongs to the old school of gentlemen's fragrance; at first sniff I thought immediately of Parfums de Nicolaï New York. Classic aromatic fougère, opening with strong citrus, a little to the sweet side but not obnoxiously so. The basil and nutmeg are pronounced and there is a phantom cucumber in there somewhere. I also get a note that, frankly, smells a bit like an indoor swimming pool, but it's more peculiar than off-putting.
In the heart, the citrus, cucumber and chlorine burn off and the basil and nutmeg establish a warm, spicy herbal presence with a hint of wood underneath.
The drydown does not disappoint, with the full powdery barbershop woody musky vanilla treatment. It is sweet, but again, not to the point of being cloying. I have read reviews that said this fragrance does not have longevity; it lasts all day on me.
I did not expect to like this, but I find it to be well-balanced, pleasant, and more transparent than most fragrances of this school, giving it a more modern feel.
It turns out that 154 is the street number of the first Jo Malone bijou store in London. If a classic aromatic fougère is up your alley, give this a try.
Perfumer: Jo Malone
Year: 2001
Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Mandarin; Lavender, Basil, Nutmeg; Patchouli, Vetiver, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla.
Post a Comment
Basenotes lists the perfumer as Jo Malone...I always thought she was more of a creative director than a perfumer??
ReplyDeleteI always read your blog , guys and appreciate your opinions .
ReplyDeleteI have tagged you with a F*cking Fabulous award...see my blog for instructions...