Kingdom (2nd Opinion) (Alexander McQueen)


Guest review by John of Cincinnati
Like much of McQueen’s fashion, Kingdom is rebellious, combative, and challenging. You are never quite sure what to make of it, but you can’t help but take notice. As such… conceptually… I think it is a brilliant scent. Unfortunately, a brilliant conception doesn’t necessarily make for an easy-wearing scent.

That being said, I actually think it smells awful. It smells so bad that I can’t help but think that this sensory affront wasn’t partially intentional, which I find a little fascinating. Other reviewers likened it to unwashed parts of the female anatomy or the armpits of an aging whore. When I first read these reviews, I thought they were just being a little melodramatic. But, when I smelled the scent, that is immediately what came to mind. It’s truly a scent that reminds me of Napoleon sending a note to Josephine, “I’ll be home in fifteen days; don’t bathe.” I imagine when he returned from some long campaign, her boudoir smelled something like this.

It is a very feminine scent, but not in the way we’ve been taught to view feminine scents. It isn’t really floral, light, sweet, or soft. It is earthy, tired, sultry, and maybe even a little sweaty. I honestly can’t believe the heads at Gucci Group let this go out from one of their brands that is trying desperately to break even and pay off its debt, because there is no way on earth anybody could expect this to be a big seller. In a world where bland, sporty detergent scents sell a million bottles, not many can be expected to get this one or to be able to wear it easily. I have predicted almost since its release that this one will be discontinued and a few years after that will be sold on ebay for high dollars to the few, sleazy die-hards who love it and miss it. I don’t know if that will come true, but every time I sniff this one, I go, “Yikes! Back in the closet, please.”

Year: 2003
Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier
Notes: Orange, Mandarin, Mint, Neroli, Bergamot, Lemon, Carnation, Ginger, Rhubarb, Jasmine, Celery Seeds, Rose, Amber, Musk, Oakmoss

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1 comments:

  1. Might interest you to know, if'n you don't already, that the original first choice for Kingdom was what is now Secretions Magnifiques by Etat Libre D'Orange. McQueen's company passed on it, thinking it too severe. SM works well within ELO, where it bestows upon their other releases a sense of perspective and avant-garde cache, and in that sense whether it sells well or not isn't of such crucial importance. For a clothing line with only one or two perfumes, the first of which this would have been, SM would have been deadly. Kingdom, less so.

    It's weird. I don't smell skank. I think the controversy really does have a lot to do with cumin. In Kingdom I don't smell a mess nor do I get confusion. Its character feels very specific and appealing to me, so much so that I'm baffled by people who not only dislike it but detest it. But I've noticed that people I know don't react to or perceive cumin the same way in fragrances which use it heavily. Good example: Diptyque L'Autre. I don't smell Indian food sweat. My best friends, on the other hand, wrinkle up their noses in disgust, horrified that I should wear such a thing.
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