Amy Johnson, photo from makingthemodernworld.org.uk
by Mark
In the arguments about reformulation, no house seems to be the subject of more bitter debate and accusation than the venerable house of Caron. As a result, I am always hesitant to embark on a review of a classic Caron fragrance. I have not smelled the originals. I will call them as I smell them. End disclaimer.
En Avion, we are told, is Ernest Daltroff's tribute to the aviatrices of the 1920s. One of Caron's urn fragrances, its availability is limited. My parfum was received in December 2007 as a sample with a purchase of Tabac Blond.
The opening is sharp and pungent, featuring orange and neroli combining with spicy clove and carnation. Sometimes I imagine this to smell like fuel, in keeping with its theme. Soon, though, a great deal of sweet powder becomes manifest; this evokes the dreaded "old lady" analogy, potentially causing a brief period of bemusement (assuming you don't want to smell like an old lady, that is.)
As the more volatile citrus notes fade away, rose and jasmine well up, bound in soft leather, and pushing the powder into the background.
The scent mellows, the powder stays quiet, and the persistent spiciness of clove melds harmoniously with the florals and leather. The heart is beautiful, and surprisingly modern, or perhaps it is more accurate to say timeless.
Eventually woods and oakmoss announce a return to earth, and the flight is over. For some reason it always surprises me that I prefer this to the infamous Tabac Blond. Perhaps I would not feel the same way about the original formulations; as with the fate of Amelia Earhart, we may never know.
Perfumer: Ernest Daltroff
Year: 1929
Notes: Orange blossom, Neroli, Clove, Carnation, Rose, Jasmine, Opoponax, Woods, Oakmoss.
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