By Dane
Me and violets have some issues. Every time I read it listed in the notes, I get excited, and every time I test the fragrance in question, I'm disappointed. I have no idea what my fascination is with the ingredient (seeing as the number of perfumes that use the actual essence of the flower probably number zero, although many make the claim), but I won't rest until I find the "perfect" violet (rather, the perfect ionone).
The violet-du-jour? Putain des Palaces. First off, the name. I know, I know, it's very immature and even offensive to some, but after reading the perfumer's inspiration (a scene from the wonderful movie A Very Long Engagement, where a prostitute seeks revenge on her departed beau's unnecessary death at war), it makes a bit more sense. All that nonsense aside, the scent itself is really quite lovely.
The main facets of PdP are florals (violet, rose), leather, a bit of spice, and some "animalic" ingredients (as per the advertised notes). The actual scent is an interesting combo of violets and leather, reminiscent of the overbearing Cuir Amethyste by Armani Prive. PdP is much softer, much more wearable, and definitely more affordable. Many comparisons have also been made with my most despised perfume, Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle (I shudder even thinking of it). I can see why, but the differences are enough to warrant me liking one and loathing the other.
PdP opens with soft florals and a hint of fruit, followed quickly by the leather. I've read some reviews not catching much leather at all, but to me, it's very apparent. While most violet-scents would qualify the word "powdery", PdP is more on the dusty, dry side, and an odd spicy note is present making it feel a bit unsettled (in a good way). The notes list ginger, but to me, it seems a bit more exotic.
Overall, a lovely scent, but nothing groundbreaking, and definitely not a reflection of the name. My quest continues.
Year: 2006
Perfumer: Nathalie Feisthauer
Notes: Rose Absolute, Violet, Leather, Muguet, Mandarine, Ginger, Rice Powder, Amber, Animalic Notes
Post a Comment
Hi Dane, still hunting that perfect violet, I see. Have you tried Geo F Trumper Ajaccio Violets? It is simple, not too sweet.
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure if I tried that one...I guess I'm just fussy with my violets. The simple ones are too simple, and the more complicated versions miss the mark somehow. PdP is really nice, but not quite what I was looking for.
ReplyDeleteAdding a brief update - ELdO was discontinued by a local department store and I picked up a bottle of Putain for about $6...not bad, eh? Anyway, I've worn it on and off now for a while, and I have to say I've grown rather fond of it. That mystery spice still rears its head, and seems more and more like cumin or possibly cardamom to my nose. The rose now seems more apparent to me, and adds a richness to the topnotes. The violet part is still meh, and the leather is still present. Overall, still not the stuff of dreams, but lovely, wearable, and I'm glad I have a bottle.
ReplyDelete