By Thomas
I hate okra. There – I said it. This southern boy hates okra. That said, I consider it a mark of genius when someone prepares a dish with okra that I find irresistible. Much the same could be said about, say…civet. Would you willingly wear a fragrance with a pronounced soiled-diaper note? What kind of madman would even compose a scent featuring civet? What would he have to do to make it palatable, much less respectable or even…irresistible?
Mouchoir de Monsieur provides a few answers. First, the details: MdM is a fougere – lavender and vanilla are the central themes, plus a healthy dose of lemon at the get-go, and some herbs de Provence (basil, thyme, etc) scattered throughout. This – as it might sound – is a dry, cool, and well-balanced scent: the lemon and herbs give lift to the dull civet pong, lending balance and interest to the fougere foundation.
The lemon, though, is short-lived. After a few minutes it recedes to reveal the florals (not sure which ones – Tuberose? Jasmine? Verbena?). This isn’t a radical transformation, mind you – they’ve been there since the first spray – but rather the balance shifts and the mood darkens slightly as the lemon evaporates. Still this fougere remains light on his feet, and always respectable.
What I marvel at is that Mouchoir De Monsieur is so neutral. There’s very little sweetness but lots of fullness, the lush florals and dry, slightly bitter herbs balance the civet, which is a bit rank but never outrageous. The balance between these notes is compelling and keeps me sniffing my wrist over and over. This isn’t a sillage monster, though – Not much projection at all, and dries down to skin pretty well by lunchtime.
Yes, it’s a throwback scent. I don’t think any major house would compose such a scent today, and that’s a shame, or maybe not – in lesser hands this could be a disaster. If you’re up for a challenge and discovery through repeated wearings, this may be up your alley, as it is mine. Much like Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, it may not be the flashiest in the room, but its quiet repose still commands attention.
Check out Mark's review tomorrow, and Dane's review the following day.
Year: 1904
Perfumer: Jacques Guerlain
Notes: Lavender, Bergamot, Verbena, Rose, Jasmine, Neroli, Fern Harmony, Patchouli, Vanilla, Iris
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