By Dane
It's said that Jean-Claude Ellena had a small obsession with Eau d'Hermes, the house's first fragrance, composed by the great Edmond Roudnitska. There's no doubt that Eau d'Hermes inspired Ellena's brilliant Declaration (not to mention Bigarade Concentree and Cologne Bigarade for Frederic Malle). I admit that lately I've had a bit of an obsession too...not for Eau d'Hermes, but for Declaration and all of its subsidiaries.
I stated in my previous review for the original Declaration that, although there are several flankers for the scent, the original can't be topped. I stick by this statement, but I can see why someone might prefer the others. Essence is a wonderful scent. Darker and thicker than the original, but otherwise maintaining the integrity completely. The cumin is still there, but a sweeter, fruity amber-ish note joins in to create a warmer sensation. Something in there makes the whole composition a bit dirtier somehow, possibly with the use of additional animalic ingredients and musks. Overall, less minimal, and maybe even easier to appreciate.
Bois Bleu, on the other hand, is quite a departure. The cumin is gone, the wood notes are toned down, and are joined by a mentholated, aquatic accord. Declaration has a slew of imitators and at the very least has inspired much of what modern masculine perfumery is today. Bois Bleu comes across as nothing more than a cheap copy of the original. If I hadn't know what I was smelling, I'd think I just spritzed on the latest D&G scent.
If the original wasn't quite right for you, try the Essence. Pass on the Bleu.
Oh, one more thing - have you ever had one of those realizations that would otherwise be SO obvious, you're embarrassed to share it with anyone? It took me a long time to realize the spray-mechanism on the Declaration bottle was emulating the winder on a watch. Oy.
Declaration Essence
Year: 2001
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Notes: Orange, Bergamot, Cedar, Birch, Oakmoss, Cardamom, Vetiver, Rosewood, Moss
Declaration Bois Bleu
Year: 2001
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Notes: Lemon, Bitter Orange, Birch Leaves, Bergamot, Penner, Blue Teakwood, Nutmeg, Vetiver, Cardamom
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Nice post Dane... and yes, I have endured MANY of those embarrassing occasions you mentioned - more than I care to admit. It also took me a long time to realise that water is not in fact "blue"; rather blue is the colour reflected back from the sky (will also explain why on grey days, the sea looks, um, grey).
ReplyDeleteAh well... we live and learn. :)