By Dane
In 2007, Pierre Bourdon announced his retirement from the perfume world (to the dismay of all his loyal followers.) His absence from the world of fragrances will be a great loss, as Bourdon was the creator of some truly inspirational scents. Shiseido's Feminite du Bois (with Christopher Sheldrake), Yves Saint Laurent's Kouros, the highly-acclaimed colognes from Institut Tres Bien, and of course Davidoff's groundbreaking Cool Water.
Over the past few years, Bourdon has been busy with Gianfranco Ferre's line of fragrances, some of which are outstanding (Ferre for women), and some middle-of-the-road (Ferre for men). One of the hidden gems of the line is Bergamotto Marino. BM, to my nose, is Bourdon's tribute to Ambergris, the magical, rare ingredient derived from...well, whale puke. Ambergris is essentially the Sperm Whale's furball...coughed-up stomach remnants that float around in the ocean, eventually washing up on shore and drying, only to be found by some lucky sod who gets to sell it for a few hundred thousand dollars.
Why is Ambergris so prized? Well, the aroma is a mix of warm amber, salty ocean air, and peculiar fishy, musky accents. Hermes did a lovely interpretation with Eau de Merveilles, but to my nose, Bergamotto Marino uses the real thing (or Bourdon did a damn good job of reconstructing it).
BM surprised me in that it lacks the bitter bergamot note we are all so familiar with. Instead, the bergamot note is sweet and fruity. Still recognizably citrus, but without the usual tang that accompanies it. The heart of the scent is purely marine - without smelling in any way like the now-cliched Cool Water. This is, after all, an Eau de Cologne in style and weight, but with the floral and herbal section replaced by the scent of salted skin. I was fortunate enough to grow up near the ocean, and to me, Bergamotto Marino captures the essence perfectly. If you want oceanic without smelling aquatic, BM is a great option.
BM probably won't be found at your local department store, but can easily be found online for a reasonable price. You'll have to excuse the sad, Malle "inspired" bottle.
Year: 2006
Perfumer: Pierre Bourdon
Notes: Bergamot, Black Currant, Melon, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Neroli, Mahogany, Oakmoss, Musk, Amber
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