By Dane
I'm going to skip all the banter of Etat Libre's "controversial" ad copy, visuals, and perfume names. If you're at all familiar with the brand, you've read enough about it.
Nombril Immense, or Giant Belly Button (nope, not going there) is the firm's signature patchouli scent. Every perfume company has to have one (not sure why), and after years of searching for the perfect patch, I've settled on this one. Why, you ask, would I place preference on NI when the likes of Borneo, Coromandel, Patchouli Empire, and Intrigant Patchouli captured me so? Well, lack of ornamentation would be my response.
NI has a simple structure of quality patchouli, some greenery, a bit of spice, and a touch of musk and amber. The quality of the materials is allowed to shine because you're not focusing on added textures, like the chocolate and animalic features of the scents mentioned above. In my opinion, patchouli already has enough complexities on its own. NI also manages to make a material notorious for its lack of cleanliness smell remarkably crisp and tidy, which is where the quality shines.
The opening of NI is powdery, peppered, and a bit fruity. Soon enough the patchouli comes in and tramples all that into the ground. The patchouli is very green and dewy, almost resembling the smell of damp grass. An incense-smokiness is also present, but manages to only highlight the patchouli without taking over the show. Vetiver's green scent is evident in the drydown, and eventually a soft, dusty amber is left on the skin.
I admit that most of the scents in Etat's line are challenging to love and difficult to wear. Nombril Immense makes a good compromise between interesting and likeable, and might be a good place to start for someone interested in their offerings.
Year: 2006
Perfumer: Nathalie Feisthauer
Notes: Patchouli, Peru Balsam, Black Pepper Absolute, Vetiver, Oppoponax, Bergamot, Carrot Seed, Ambrette Seed Absolute
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