
by Mark
When I think of luxury, I think of Chanel, and Chanel's Exclusifs are as luxurious as I can imagine anything to be.
Bois des Iles is a classic of the line, and from the first moment, Ernest Beaux's unique brilliance is apparent. All of his compositions project a complex clarity, a depth and beauty that I don't find in anything else. I imagine a three-dimensionality that I envision as light between sheets of glass, each pane a separate olfactory element.
Enough of the poetic hallucinations; what does it smell like?
My first impression was of florals amped on aldehydes, reminding me of Cuir de Russie without the dirty part. Instead of the dirt, we get a slightly spicy woody accord that some find reminiscent of gingerbread.
The scent is beautiful but not delicate; I did not feel it was particularly feminine, and despite the use of sandalwood, it avoided any masculine tropes. It also made me a little sad, but I don't think that Beaux necessarily intended that.
I was a bit surprised and disappointed that, after such a bold and brilliant start, it faded fairly quickly. The drydown is a very nice, muted affair of sandalwood supported by well-blended vetiver and vanilla.
This review is of the Eau de Toilette; I would love to try the parfum and see if it is more tenacious. I'll say it again; it's a beautiful scent.
Perfumer: Ernest Beaux
Year: 1926
Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Coriander, Neroli, Peach; Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Iris, Ylang-ylang; Vetiver, Sandalwood, Benzoin, Vanilla, Musk.
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