By Dane
Of all the ingredients used in perfumery today, one speaks to me the most - iris. Anyone new to the world of fragrances might not know that the flower of the iris isn't used in perfumery. The chilled, complex character that I love so much comes from beneath the soil, called the orris root. Only certain varieties of iris can produce the orris root used in perfumery, and up until recently, it was considered one of the most expensive ingredients used.
There are numerous perfumes that focus on the orris root (otherwise known as a soliflore, although in this case, not really appropriate). The granddaddy of them all was Iris Gris (Jacques Fath), a coveted and allegedly masterful combination of chilly iris and peach. I say allegedly because I haven't had the fortunate opportunity to smell it...yet. The reference iris available on the market today would be my favourite, Iris Silver Mist (Serge Lutens). ISM strips the elements of iris down to their bare foundations and leaves a raw, stunning impression. On the other end of the spectrum, the equally beautiful 28 La Pausa (Chanel) focuses on the creamy, buttery aspects of iris and maintains a stunning luxury only found in Chanel's exclusive compositions.
Other iris-based scents deserve mention, although most use iris as more of a feature than the main focus. Dior Homme introduced the grey note to the masses with it's chilly opening, while Prada's Infusions d'Iris countered it with an equally androgynous, synthetic take. Almost all of Chanel's "Les Exclusifs", including the beautiful 28 La Pausa, incorporate iris in a supporting role (not to mention the house's classic No. 19). Guerlain also uses an exclusive iris in many of it's creations, but the standout would be Apres l'Ondee, the peculiar and lonely violet composition that highlights the dewy, earthy aspects of iris.
I personally think that a few iris-based fragrances went wrong. Santa Maria Novella's Iris is harsh and chemical, which is matched nicely to Heeley's Iris de Nuit. While I adore Le Labo's Iris 39, it's inappropriate title (should have been Patchouli 39) leaves me wondering. Another inappropriate label would be Acqua di Parma's Iris Noble. A beautiful gardenia, but no iris in sight. Odori's Iris and Guerlain's Iris Ganache missed the mark by combining sweet confectionery notes, missing the brilliant balance found in Dior's Bois d'Argent, itself a spinoff of the brilliant Bvlgari Black.
I will continue to look forward to any new iris-based releases, but it seems as though Iris Silver Mist has nothing to worry about.
ps - I realize there are TONS of other scents not mentioned here. Feel free to comment on your favourite if I missed it. For anyone in possession of Andy Tauer's infamous Orris, I hate you.
I, too, am powerless over the iris accord. When I was just starting out in my olfactory journey, it turned out that almost every fragrance I was drawn to had iris at its core. One you forgot to mention is l'Homme de Coeur, by Divine, which is, well, divine! It is a compliment magnet. Thanks for your wonderful blog.
ReplyDeleteScott - you're right, L'Homme de Coeur is nothing short of "divine". It's one of my summer favourites, but for some reason it just doesn't last on my skin. Perhaps that's why most of their packaging are splash bottles...I'm probably not dousing enough on!
ReplyDeleteI never understood Dior Homme until I had smelled some iris fragrances, then returned to it. I'm so glad I did explore the note.
ReplyDeleteAlso it's nice to see that No 19 is an iris scent. That's probably why I was seduced by it, and now it makes sense that 19 is a powdered-oakmoss to me.
Hiris is another interesting iris, because it's possibly the most carrot-y thing I've ever smelled, and many sources say that Iris is reminiscent of carrots, but I've never noticed that.
What startles me most about iris though is that the flower smells of violets! I'd love to smell the raw material before it's processed.
Zoiks...iris is a favorite of mine, to the point of having multiple versions around.
ReplyDeletePrada Infusion d'Iris and Hermes Hiris are two accessible versions I keep in full bottle. I like the Aqua di Parma, both edt and edp, which are different enough to note--and clearly have iris to my nose.
TDC Bois d'Iris is another I enjoy...and 28 La Pausa.
I loved the new Prada fragrance. The Iris is amazing.
ReplyDeleteI agree witho you about Le Labo´s and SMN.
Nick - Hiris has never spoken to me for some reason, but it would have been an obvious inclusion, as it was one of the first scents to focus no iris.
ReplyDeleteScentSelf - Agreed that the EDT and EDP in Iris Noble are quite distinct. I happen to prefer the EDP, but I can't seem to catch the iris in it (although I'm sure it's there somewhere).
ReplyDeleteHow could I have forgotten Bois d'Iris! I even own a bottle...
maisqueperfume - I wasn't crazy about the men's Prada Iris, but the women's is lovely, and as far as I'm concerned, quite masculine.
ReplyDelete