Declaration (Cartier)

By Dane

Frankly, I'm surprised that Declaration is as popular as it is. It's not that I don't love it (I do), it's that most mainstream fragrances today open with a fresh, generically appealing topnote, while Declaration does the exact opposite.

Cumin. Like it or lump it, it's part of many perfumer's repertoire and without doubt adds a certain element of surprise to any composition. Declaration opens with a blast of it, and to some, that comes across as nothing less than unwashed body. While I'm not a fan of unwashed bodies, I do love the exotic flavour that cumin adds. Other spices like cardamom and cinnamon join in on the opening with a subtle touch of citrus and sweet florals, but there isn't anyone that won't have a look of surprise after experiencing the familiar tickle of cumin.

While the list of notes below goes on and on (and on) with various ingredients, the main star once the cumin fades is the woody synthetic Iso E Super. Jean-Claude Ellena seems to favour this ingredient in many of his masculine compositions, but I think the balance in Declaration really makes the ingredient shine like no other. He later used similar interpretations in Bigarade Concentree and Cologne Bigarade for Frederic Malle, as well as Poivre Samarcande for Hermes.

Declaration has been around the block a few times and left some spawn along the way. You'll find various concentrated versions, aquatic versions, limited edition bottles and leather sleeves, and maybe even a matching watch. As with many sequels, the original is where to start (and probably finish).

I'm sure nay-sayers would wonder why anyone would want to take all the effort to shower in the morning only to stink themselves back up again, but once you understand the beauty of Declaration, you'll wonder what it was you thought "clean" smelled like all along.

Year: 1998
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Notes: Bitter Orange, Neroli, Bergamot, Mandarin Orange, Birch, Coriander, Caraway, Artemisia, Cardamom, Jasmine, Orrit Root, Juniper, Pepper, Cinnamon, Ginger, Iris, Cedar, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Tea, Amber, Leather

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