by Mark
An Eau de Cologne is traditionally a light, refreshing scent with little longevity. Although I had been advised that there was nothing light about Helmut Lang's Eau de Cologne, I figured it wouldn't last long, so I sprayed it on liberally.
On doing so, I got a head full of musk and a fleeting whiff of anise and something that smells like cucumber. Both of these latter accords vanished almost instantly, however, and the musk settled - rather heavily - in. This is no fresh, clean musk like Mugler Cologne, nor even a vegetal/floral (in my opinion) musk like Muscs Khoublaï Khan; it is a warm, thick animalic musk that had my throat threatening to close.
I was happy to find that the denseness of the musk abates after an hour or so, and the fragrance becomes more complex and ethereal. While it is difficult to pick out all the individual components, the combination of the orange leaves, rosemary, jasmine, rose and woods is pleasant and conveys a slightly woodsy presence while still retaining the skin scent of the musk underneath.
The herbaceous heart segues into soft vanilla and patchouli over the now gentle bed of musk. Longevity is not great, as I had anticipated, but I can't recommend a heavy application to make up for it; it can be overwhelming at first.
This is a sophisticated scent, as one might expect from the marque. Its arc is one of a seduction; the intoxication of the musk, the sensory feast of the floral/herbal heart, and the dénouement of soft patchouli and vanilla.
Although all Helmut Lang's fragrances have been discontinued, they are still available from various discounters and liquidators.
Perfumer: Maurice Roucel
Year: 2000
Notes: Lavender, Bitter Orange Leaves, Absinthe, Rosemary, Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the Valley, Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vanilla, Musk.
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