Cedre (Serge Lutens)

By Dane

The release of Cedre from the house of Lutens was no surprise to anyone, seeing as much of his work is based on the ingredient. What no one was expecting though, was a tuberose-laden scent with only the slightest hint of anything woody.

Cedre starts off with a powerful, mentholated camphor note. Not nearly as shocking as Tubereuse Criminelle, but still quite the sucker-punch. Immediately evident are the spices - clove, cinnamon, and the usual suspects for a Lutens fragrance. Tuberose is clearly the main player in the scent from the beginning, although it softens somewhat as things progress. Cedar does makes its way in eventually, although not nearly enough to warrant a star-spot in the perfume's title. Cedar's typical raspy character is felt more than any obvious woody presence.

The drydown reveals something much more interesting though - a dirty musk! Up until that point, things are a bit cloying, a bit on the sweet side, and very much full of clove (not my favourite thing in the world), but the musk note is an intriguing touch.

I can see how Cedre would blend in with the rest of the Lutens export line, but it its challenging composition makes it more interesting for those looking for something out of the ordinary.

Year: 2005
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Tuberose, Amber, Cinnamon, Cedar, Musk, Cloves