by Mark
Knize Ten was one of the earliest leather fragrances, introduced in 1924. It is the creation of François Coty and Vincent Roubert, the former being the author of the legendary Chypre, and the latter the creator of the less well-known but also legendary Iris Gris. Along with Caron Tabac Blond and Chanel Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten remains one of the classic, archetypal leather fragrances.
Knize Ten opens with a raspy, rubbery accord in which one can discern the bitterness of petitgrain (bitter orange) as well as the complementary citrus notes of bergamot and lemon. It is an opening harsher and bolder than anything being currently released, yet it is typical of its genre; fragrances of that period were not afraid to have an aggressive top note, as opposed to the sugary sweet, alcoholically aquatic or artificially woody ones currently in favor.
As the smoky and rubbery top notes dissipate, the floral and powdery heart is revealed; a beautiful contrast. The citrus is supplemented by rose, geranium and spicy carnation, with powdery orris and a hint of cinnamon. This is a perfect example of how a floral accord can be masculine, if in a slightly old-fashioned way.
Like many leather fragrances, Knize Ten also has a tobacco accord; it is closer to the ashtray of Bandit than the rich unsmoked tobacco of Chanel Cuir de Russie.
The drydown is relatively muted compared to the strength of the top notes. It is at this stage that it is most similar to its cousins, Tabac Blond and Cuir de Russie; the leather is soft, sweetened with amber and vanilla, anchored with musk and castoreum.
Of the modern leather fragrances, I would say Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque is closest in character to Knize Ten, mostly because of the shared prominent orange top notes and the inclusion of cinnamon.
Knize Ten is perhaps the roughest and most granular of the surviving leather fragrances of its heyday, and yet it is a complex and exceptionally well-blended fragrance by any standard. Picture a faded color photo of a 1920s Mercedes-Benz roadster in a field of flowers...
Perfumer: Vincent Roubert and François Coty
Year: 1924
Notes: Bergamot, Orange, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon, Geranium, Cedarwood, Rose, Orris, Carnation, Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Leather, Musk, Moss, Amber, Castoreum, and Vanilla.
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