By Dane
Mark has already given a full description and analysis of the brilliant Knize Ten, but I have some further thoughts and impressions I'd like to share.
Although not listed in the advertised notes, I find KT to be more of a fruity-leather than anything else. I don't detect much in the way of citrus (save for the bitter bergamot in the topnotes), but more stewed fruit, which brings it back to Mark's comparison with Lutens' Cuir Mauresque. There is a subtle, dark plum note evident and other softer apricot and berry notes that first appear in the topnotes, then fade away in the haze of thick birch tar, then make a reappearance along with a musty, stale note (which I can't seem to identify). Before you start thinking that I'm describing today's fruity concoctions, this is no Escada sugar-plum mess. Today's use of fruit in perfume draws more comparisons with bubble gum than any actual living organism, while the subtle fruit notes described in KT are dark, rich, and smell could be compared to the fruit notes in a fine wine.
From a classic like Knize Ten, numerous comparisons could be made with today's modern perfumery and the influence it had on the industry. The most interesting top-down scent to me would be Chrisophe Laudamiel's S-ex for S-Perfume. Probably the most modern interpretation of leather on the market today, S-ex's strawberry note mixed with synthetic musks and plastic-leathers draws back to KT's more natural, harsh rendition of a similar accord. Not an obvious comparison, but something to think about.
Everything works together quite smoothly, and although KT could easily come across as "just another leather" initially, the complexities hidden beneath it's animal skins makes it quite unique. No matter how you interpret it, Knize Ten (a "Toilet Water for Gentlemen") is irreplaceable for its historical importance and influence. Easily one of the best fragrances of all time.
Although not listed in the advertised notes, I find KT to be more of a fruity-leather than anything else. I don't detect much in the way of citrus (save for the bitter bergamot in the topnotes), but more stewed fruit, which brings it back to Mark's comparison with Lutens' Cuir Mauresque. There is a subtle, dark plum note evident and other softer apricot and berry notes that first appear in the topnotes, then fade away in the haze of thick birch tar, then make a reappearance along with a musty, stale note (which I can't seem to identify). Before you start thinking that I'm describing today's fruity concoctions, this is no Escada sugar-plum mess. Today's use of fruit in perfume draws more comparisons with bubble gum than any actual living organism, while the subtle fruit notes described in KT are dark, rich, and smell could be compared to the fruit notes in a fine wine.
From a classic like Knize Ten, numerous comparisons could be made with today's modern perfumery and the influence it had on the industry. The most interesting top-down scent to me would be Chrisophe Laudamiel's S-ex for S-Perfume. Probably the most modern interpretation of leather on the market today, S-ex's strawberry note mixed with synthetic musks and plastic-leathers draws back to KT's more natural, harsh rendition of a similar accord. Not an obvious comparison, but something to think about.
Everything works together quite smoothly, and although KT could easily come across as "just another leather" initially, the complexities hidden beneath it's animal skins makes it quite unique. No matter how you interpret it, Knize Ten (a "Toilet Water for Gentlemen") is irreplaceable for its historical importance and influence. Easily one of the best fragrances of all time.
Side note - I should mention that the version Mark and I are reviewing may not be the the current formulation on the market today. A fragrance of this vintage has no doubt changed its formula over the years, and we are uncertain of the age of our samples.
Perfumer: Vincent Roubert and François Coty
Year: 1924
Notes: Bergamot, Orange, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon, Geranium, Cedarwood, Rose, Orris, Carnation, Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Leather, Musk, Moss, Amber, Castoreum, and Vanilla
Perfumer: Vincent Roubert and François Coty
Year: 1924
Notes: Bergamot, Orange, Petitgrain, Rosemary, Lemon, Geranium, Cedarwood, Rose, Orris, Carnation, Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Leather, Musk, Moss, Amber, Castoreum, and Vanilla
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