
By Dane
According to some Internet research, datura is a lovely, trumpet-shaped tropical flower, and as with many floral notes used in perfumery, I have no idea what they smell like in real life (stupid Canadian climate). To me though, Datura Noir is all about tuberose, which has become one of my favourite notes over the years.
Every niche perfume house has their own take on tuberose. Frederic Malle has the bold, seductive Carnal Flower, Mugler's upscale line has the dry, woody A Traverse La Miroir, and Diptyque has the wispy and ethereal Do Son. Lutens seems to have three prominent tuberose themes in his collection - the jarring and beautiful Tubereuse Criminelle, the inappropriately named Cedre, and the fragrance in question, Datura Noir.
DN seems to fall in between many of the other tuberose scents mentioned. There is a bit of creaminess emphasized with coconut, some fruity aspects emphasized with apricot, and even some of the more indolic, disturbing features that almost come across as nail polish or paint thinner. It sounds like a fine mess, but in combination, the accord is velvety smooth.
DN is probably one of the more feminine scents in the Lutens export range, but that's never stopped me before!
Year: 2001
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Mandarin Peel, Lemon Blossom, White Datura, Bitter Almond, Tuberose, Heliotrope, Apricot, Coconut, Myrrhe, Osmanthus, Tonka Bean, Musk, Vanilla
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A special thanks to Jane for introducing me to a new favourite!
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