By Dane
Bois de Violette is one of the more difficult fragrances for me to describe. It was the first Lutens scent I tested, and thus my first encounter with the complicated mulled fruit and cedar accord accredited to Pierre Bourdon for the creation of BdV's inspiration, Shiseido's Feminite du Bois.
Cedar and other evergreen trees were prominent were I grew up, but the cedar in the Lutens range smells more of a raspy wood with notes of rich, dark fruit than any actual tree. While immediately appealing, BdV didn't smell of violets to me. I realize now that, like most guys, I had no idea what a violet smelled like to begin with. Classical perfumes like Violette de Toulouse and Guerlain's cheap and cheerful Meteorites have since schooled me in the powdery beauty of the violet accord used in perfumery. While Violettes de Toulouse claims to use natural violet essence (both costly and difficult to produce), the recognizable violet accord is brought to us typically through the synthetic ingredient Methyl Ionone. While violet soliflore fragrances are "pretty", they lack a depth and intrigue that only the brilliance of Mr. Lutens can bring to the table. The floral nuances in wood tones, versus the dry wood overtones in violet combine to create a magical and harmonious accord that cannot be matched.
If violets aren't your thing, you have lots of options within the Lutens range - Bois et Musc, Bois Oriental, and Bois et Fruit. For a cheaper option, try the original, Shiseido's Feminite du Bois, which I find more floral than the others. For even more options, Dior's Dolce Vita and Miller Bertaux's Parfum Trouve are similar, lightweight interpretations. To me though, Bois de Violette finds the perfect balance and is irreplaceable.
Year: 1992
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Cedar, Violet Leaves, Flowers
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