No. 18 (Chanel)

By Dane

No. 18 is a strange and wonderful addition to Chanel's "Exclusive" collection. Each fragrance in the line is touted to focus on one ingredient or theme, and No. 18 is allegedly all about the ambrette seed. Ambrette seeds comes from a species of hibiscus, and not only smell similar to musk, actually come in hairy looking pods not unlike that from the musk deer. Ambrette oil is of course a much more humane musk and, along with other vegetal musks, and is becoming more and more prominent in fragrances.

No. 18 opens with a strange, sour pickle note that is unlike any other topnote I've ever encountered. Once the shock passes you by, iris and rose are the main players and dominate the rest of the scent. The iris seems to differ from 28 La Pausa's creaminess and keeps a cold, chilled feeling. The rose is, of course, very expensive smelling in keeping with Chanel's standards. A musky undertone is always present, but to me, No, 18 doesn't feel like a solo-musk. Like some others in the line, it isn't terribly long lasting and doesn't project far, but remains quietly close to the skin.

Peculiar, but luxuriously so. Along with 28, my favourite in the line.

Year: 2007
Perfumer: Jacques Polge, Christopher Sheldrake