By Thomas
Let me start by saying that Kouros is a polarizing scent, and no review can take the place of testing it for yourself. Just to be safe, let's also say that you should test Kouros multiple times before buying it (I am not the only person I know who has made a u-turn on this one). That I would make any disclaimer at all is unusual, but for a perfume review, well… I guess that sets the right tone for this contentious juice.
Kouros is classified as a fougere, but that's like saying Beethoven's ninth is a symphony. The weird thing is – like the opening of Bee’s ninth – the notes are so hard to nail down. There's a bit of lime in the opening, but it's not tart like I expect a lime to be. Sage is wandering around, but it's not focused. There's some vetiver in the heart, but it's not very green (it is soapy, though). Coriander is there, but its edge is dulled. The incense has no smoke. Flowery notes come and go but nothing blooms into anything recognizable. Musk, honey, and leather turn up eventually but never really take over (do they ever?). What’s with the Hamlet act?
For this, I blame costus and its ilk. Costus is a root that has an…unwashed scent. Costus-type scents are described as evoking wet hair and skin oil, as one would smell after a day at the beach under an overcast sky. Hang out at a seaside hotel and you’ll get what I’m referring to. The contrast between the soapy-powdery notes, and this unwashed vibe makes for a compelling scent that is so utterly frustrating for this reviewer. The overall effect doesn't smell of anything that has a natural scent.
If anything, Kouros evokes images. The white bottle with chrome trim makes you think of a seaside pool. Or a shower, perhaps a high school shower after the team has used it. The soapy cleanliness hasn't quite vanquished the dirt and sweat that came before it. That both should exist in a scent is remarkable, and that this scent has sold well for 30 years now is a testament to its bold genius.
Kouros Fraicheur is a genteel variation of the original – dial the costus back, add some calone, and you've got the same spirit, but more amenable to summer/office/polite company. If Kouros makes you nervous, this is a good place to start.
Year: 1981
Perfumer: Pierre Bourdon
Notes: Coriander, Clove, Oakmoss, Ambergris
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