By Dane
I'm sensing a new trend (no kidding). Gone are the days of the woody-floral in niche perfumery...welcome to aquatic-floral land! Bertrand Duchaufour was a pioneer in updating women's perfume to the state in which it currently resides, and now that his trademark style has reached the masses, he's moved on to (re)create a new trend.
Duchaufour's first attempt at the new aquatic floral was seen in Eau d'Italie's Magnolia Romana. Fleur de Liane, his first creation since being crowned in-house perfumer for L'Artisan almost seems to be the feminine counterpart to MR (although perfectly unisex). Whether obvious or not, an homage has been paid to the melon accord found in Edmond Roudnitska's Diorella and Parfum de Therese with this release (see the 1000fragrances article on the melon accord), and to me this is the best part of the scent.
The cool cantaloupe note in FdL melds into a dewy, green flower arrangement. Essentially a fruity-floral, Duchaufour removed the normal associations of pretty and pink, and replaced them with cool aquatic facets. Instead of roses and violets, think lilies and magnolia blossoms. Duchaufour's signature wood elements are still present, but an overall chilled feeling strays from his typical style. We're now presented with a challenge - embrace the new, or complain of days past (something to think about).
Given all that, Fleur de Liane is a good scent in many respects, but I have a feeling Duchaufour has yet to release his masterpiece in this reinterpreted genre. I look forward to that day, but until then, we have Diorella to tide us over (not such a bad thing).
Year: 2008
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
Notes: Sea Water, Green Notes, Marigold, Tuberose, Magnolia, Woodsy Notes, Oakmoss
0 comments:
Post a Comment