By Dane
Chypre Rouge, at one point, was everything I disliked in a perfume - strong and syrupy with notes of curry and amber. I've since had an about-face. It somehow managed to turn into something I might even purchase (emphasis on "might"...I'm flakey like that).
CR opens with nothing less than a sucker punch of immortelle, a stinky plant reminiscent of maple syrup and curry, also known as Helichrysum (partially derived from a Greek term for "turn around"...quel coinkidink). The initial blast was enough to turn my stomach, but after repeated wearings (masochistic much?), I've grown to love the topnotes, not unlike my experience with Tubereuse Criminelle's camphorous opening. From there a sweet, berry-like heart blossoms with peppery nuances and an incense smokiness. The drydown is just that - dry. Mossy, spicy and with a nod to Chergui's "desert wind" accord.
Like many of the Lutens fragrances, CR is built upon a familiar "Lutens base", and recalls many of his other scents. You might notice Santal Blanc's sweet woods, Arabie's hot spices, Louve's tart cherries, and as mentioned before, Chergui's dry iris and incense. CR still manages to stand out from the rest with a very distinct and memorable composition.
I will advise to initially test CR on paper. Lutens' souped-up "haute concentration" eau de parfums don't wash off easily. Give it time though, and you may fall as I did.
Year: 2006
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Thyme, Pine Needles, Honey, Beeswax, Jasmine, Patchouli, Vanilla, Moss, Amber, Musk
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