Arabie (Serge Lutens)


By Dane

If I was to guess, I'd say that Arabie was the basis for Chypre Rouge (and probably several others). Dry spices, mulled fruit, and exotic woods. Chypre Rouge built upon this base and added some curried notes and a berry blast to make, in my opinion, a more interesting and complex composition (although purists would surely argue that Arabie has charms in its simplicity).

If Arabie was the inspiration for Chypre Rouge, then the "Bois" series (themselves based on Feminite du Bois) must have been the foundation for Arabie. After the initial shock of hot spices, Arabie settles down (slightly) to a familiar cedar accord. Unmistakable elements of bitter herbs make Arabie different from its family though, and to me, clove stands out the most...unfortunatley enough to almost ruin it for me.

The name is perfeclty fitting, and if the rest of the line weren't so similar, Arabie would have made quite the impact. How it stands though, others in the line caught my attention more favourably. The best thing about the Lutens line is that one note in any given perfume can be avoided by moving on to one of his other creations. Lutens' genius of brand focus is something that other companies should strive to duplicate.

Year: 2000
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Cedar, Sandalwood Resin, Mandarine Peel, Dried Figs, Dates, Nutmeg, Cumin, Clove, Bay Leaf, Balsamic Resins, Siamese Benzoin

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