by Mark
Cuir Ottoman takes the concept of head, heart and base notes to an extreme; it seems almost like three distinct fragrances in sequence.
On first application, it is a very dry, smoky, almost bitter leather, with faint undertones of mossy, floral and papery elements thanks to the jasmine and iris. The opening sequence is very much that of a leather fragrance, and a very good one. This accord, in its wildness, plays to the romantic imagery of the Ottoman Empire.
However, this phase does not last long. The bitterness, the jasmine and most of the leather evaporate and are replaced by a dry incense, mixed with resins and balsam, on a pale suede background. In this phase it is reminiscent of L'Artisan's Timbuktu more than any leather fragrance.
After some time, the arid geography is relieved by an oasis; there is a scent of sweet fruit, moistening the suede and amplifying it. Here one might be reminded of Serge Lutens' Daim Blond, or Cuir Mauresque. This is a (suede) leather, but a far cry from the rough and wild one of the opening.
Cuir Ottoman is a beautifully crafted fragrance that smells good in all its phases; yet, perhaps because of its fractured personality, it falls short of greatness. If it had stayed with the opening theme, I think it would have been superb.
On first application, it is a very dry, smoky, almost bitter leather, with faint undertones of mossy, floral and papery elements thanks to the jasmine and iris. The opening sequence is very much that of a leather fragrance, and a very good one. This accord, in its wildness, plays to the romantic imagery of the Ottoman Empire.
However, this phase does not last long. The bitterness, the jasmine and most of the leather evaporate and are replaced by a dry incense, mixed with resins and balsam, on a pale suede background. In this phase it is reminiscent of L'Artisan's Timbuktu more than any leather fragrance.
After some time, the arid geography is relieved by an oasis; there is a scent of sweet fruit, moistening the suede and amplifying it. Here one might be reminded of Serge Lutens' Daim Blond, or Cuir Mauresque. This is a (suede) leather, but a far cry from the rough and wild one of the opening.
Cuir Ottoman is a beautifully crafted fragrance that smells good in all its phases; yet, perhaps because of its fractured personality, it falls short of greatness. If it had stayed with the opening theme, I think it would have been superb.
Perfumer: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
Year: 2006
Notes: Iris, Egyptian Jasmine, Leather, Burnt Styrax, Tolu Balsam, Benzoin Resin, Cistus, Vanilla, Tonka Bean.
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