by Mark
While many perfumers work with and evoke the scents of flowers, woods, and sometimes leaves, I can't think of anyone who has mastered the palette of earth, dust and stone as well as Bertrand Duchaufour.
Sienne L'Hiver opens with a dry, slightly bitter green leafy accord. Almost immediately a spiciness appears; I was surprised to not find lychee in the list of notes, because the spiciness is similar to that in the opening of Dzongkha. The green leaves are slowly enveloped by the papery smell of either iris or papyrus, depending on whose note lists you believe; the variance in notes listed by different reviewers bears testimony to the skillfulness of his blending.
Very gradually, the leaf and paper is joined by incense, and the fragrance acquires an airy, desolate feel similar to that of Timbuktu. This, in turn, slowly morphs back into a slightly spicy vegetal accord, now more reminiscent of dried spices than the fresh leaves of the opening.
The drydown is subtle; the heart notes fade very slowly, with only the slightest bit of sweetness.
Duchaufour is a master of sparse olfactory landscapes, and this is one. I do not find it as compelling as Timbuktu or Dzongkha, both of which seem more fully realized to me.
Sienne L'Hiver opens with a dry, slightly bitter green leafy accord. Almost immediately a spiciness appears; I was surprised to not find lychee in the list of notes, because the spiciness is similar to that in the opening of Dzongkha. The green leaves are slowly enveloped by the papery smell of either iris or papyrus, depending on whose note lists you believe; the variance in notes listed by different reviewers bears testimony to the skillfulness of his blending.
Very gradually, the leaf and paper is joined by incense, and the fragrance acquires an airy, desolate feel similar to that of Timbuktu. This, in turn, slowly morphs back into a slightly spicy vegetal accord, now more reminiscent of dried spices than the fresh leaves of the opening.
The drydown is subtle; the heart notes fade very slowly, with only the slightest bit of sweetness.
Duchaufour is a master of sparse olfactory landscapes, and this is one. I do not find it as compelling as Timbuktu or Dzongkha, both of which seem more fully realized to me.
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
Year: 2006
Notes: roasted chestnuts, black olives, autumn leaves, truffles, French straw, iris root, white musk.
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