Sa Majeste La Rose (Serge Lutens)

Guest review by mikeperez23 of Miami

I have always been naturally attracted to the scent of a rose (in nature and in fragrances). Due to smelling so many different rose scents, I discovered how different rose scents can be. I guess you could say, ‘A rose in not just a rose.’

Sa Majeste la Rose by Serge Lutens is one of the few rose fragrances that manages to achieve an olfactory sensation of wetness (or dew resting on rose petals) when I smell it. What does ‘wet’ smell like, you may be asking? Well, that’s a hard question to answer.

The first spray recreates quite realistically the smell of a refrigerated walk-in cooler in a florist shop. Metal door (rivulets of water dripping down its side), cold concrete floor, and water filled buckets filled with roses. In contrast, there is NO garden of roses as strong as the top notes of SMLR. This sharp, almost tangy top note is neither demure nor dainty – it’s rather heavy. This Moroccan rose absolute top notes is slightly fruity and as it rests on my skin the scent takes on a much more natural on-the-vine rose scent. I love this part of the scent – because it reminds me of smelling a fresh rose, by sticking my entire nose inside the petals of a rose and inhaling.

I have never been a gardener, but I naturally always appreciated the scent of a rose garden, or a vase full of fresh, cut roses. Tons of products that are ‘rose scented’ are marketed to primarily women here in the U.S. It’s no coincidence then, that smelling a product scented with rose conjures up not only memories of flowers I’ve smelled, but something altogether feminine. It was with this preconceived notion of what rose should smell like (and who should wear it) that I began to really appreciate SMLR.

I must admit, there is the smallest hint of powder in the base notes, but not enough to bother me (a powdery scent hater). I smell more honey in the base notes, rather than the top notes (rare for a SL scent) and it’s a gentle touch of honey that doesn’t disrupt the rose notes at all.

The longevity of SMLR is fantastic. At the end of the night, I can still smell small whiffs of it on my skin, from a morning application.

It is said that SMLR is one of Serge Lutens personal favorite scents (along with Ambre Sultan and Clair de Musc) from the export line. This does not surprise me at all.

Year: 2000
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Moroccan rose absolute, gaiac wood, clove, white honey, musk

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Thanks to Mike for yet another wonderful review.

3 comments:

  1. JulienFromDijonApr 28, 2009 01:26 AM
    I used to think "Sa majesté la rose" was a good natural-feeling rose.
    But the more I test it, the more I feel it cheap and unbearably synthetic, overall in its lemony and soapy sides. Maybe because it's hard to do a rose scent that lasts : the first whiff might be natural, but not the rest.
    With time, I think more and more that Luten's perfumes are not as much natural as they're pretending.

    But overall I find it hard to have a single flower scent around rose. "Une rose" (malle) is nice and lichory but mixed with a strong hairspray note, "maharanih intense" (Nicolaï) has a very nice rose opening that doesn't last, "Joy" EDT (Patou) is not as strong as I wish and the civet adds fecal notes, "rose de nuit" (lutens) is more spices and honey than rose, (...)
    "Zéphir de rose" (parfums de rosine) was good, but I have to re-smell it to be sure. "Safran troublant" is one of my favourite, but the rose share in it the first role with vanilla and saffon.

    And the rose scent I'd like to discover is "homage" attar from Amouage, a über expensive but very praised one.
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  2. Julien - as you probably know, rose oil smells nothing like roses at all...so the task of making a realistic, natural smelling rose is quite the feat (I'm told). I'm not apt to be drawn to rose-in-combination than a soliflore, but I've smelled nothing better than Tea Rose.
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  3. My nose agrees with JulienFromDijon on the unbearably synthetic aspect... very linear, too heavy on the sweet. The yellow liquid stains my clothes too. :(

    For a nice uplifting tea rose soliflore, I like Penhaligon's Elisabethan Rose. Reminds me of the lingering scent of a fine English rose soap.
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