By Dane
Poivre Samarcande, to me, exemplified Jean-Claude Ellena's style - focusing on one ingredient, removing all the unnecessary embellishments, and ultimately creating something light and airy while keeping it interesting and complex.
PS is a straight-forward, masculine pepper scent with a luxurious woody backdrop in keeping with Hermes' other upscale offerings in the Hermessence collection. Refined and minimalist are things I associate with Hermes' latest brand focus, and all the offerings in this line are quietly reserved while still keeping an interesting aura.
Ellena has built a solid reputation for himself, but his creations are often criticized as not being up-to-par when compared with his previous works. The scents in the Hermessence collection are studies in simplicity, however, and while not always appealing to the perfume lovers, are in keeping with the Hermes customer they were intended for.
On a personal level, PS was my staple for some time. It has a simple, spiced musk note that appeals to my senses. Bertrand Duchaufour created a similar fragrance for L'Artisan Parfumeur in 2002 called Poivre Piquant, but Duchaufour's creation had a milkier quality and a complex drydown. PS seems to be Ellena's interpretation of the same style of fragrance...paired down and stripped of adornment, and I prefer it for these reasons.
Offerings in the Hermessence collection are a bit of an investment financially. For the frivolous (or committed), a beautiful leather sleeve available separately that matches the top-stitched cap.
Year: 2004
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Ellena
Notes: Caraway, Pepper, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli
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