Mure et Musc (L'Artisan Parfumeur)

By Dane

Every now and then you come across a pairing of two ingredients that seem as though they were meant to be together. The fruity jasmine and tobacco in Etat Libre d'Orange's Jasmine et Cigarette, the lavender and vanilla in Caron's Pour Un Homme, and the cedar and powdery violets in Serge Lutens' Bois de Violette are all perfect examples.

Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, L'Artisan Parfumeur's Mure et Musc is a dictionary example of how two opposing elements stop fighting each other and unite into one extraordinary accord. The use of a soft and clean musk with the tart juiciness of blackberries creates a perfect harmony. After Jean Laporte's departure from L'Artisan, he reused this idea in several fragrances for Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, include Fraicheur Muskissime, Eau de Mure, and even the room spray Fruits d'Automne.

An "extreme" version of M&M that places emphasis on the darker, fruitier elements of the blackberry also exists, as well as a "cologne" with emphasis on the citrus elements. Countless other perfumers have found inspiration in the fruit and musk accord, but while the other variations are often successful, the original maintains a balance that cannot be reproduced.

Year: 1978
Perfumer: Jean Laporte
Notes: Blackberries, Musk