by Mark
Concentré d'Orange Verte is, as the name suggests, the more concentrated version of the earlier Eau d'Orange Verte; the original was sometimes faulted for poor longevity, and the Concentré is undoubtedly an attempt to satisfy this complaint. As is often the case, the balance of the fragrance has reputedly changed in the new formulation; since I have never worn the original, I will not attempt to characterize what has changed.
Concentré goes on in a blast of bitter orange supported by bergamot and lemon. The citrus dominates about as long as citrus does - not very long - and as it starts to recede, I am certain I detect civet, although it is not listed in the notes. The civet-like accord fades into a blend of moss and cedar. After some time, another phantom note, cumin, becomes noticeable, and that then morphs into mint.
Here things stabilize, with traces of the bitter orange detectable in a bed of mint over the cedar and moss framework.
In the drydown phase, a surprisingly feral and leafy patchouli takes over; this is not a sweet hippie patchouli but something almost sinister in it pungency.
Although this fragrance has a reputation as being a light, refreshing summer scent, I found it has a progression of strong and unequivocal accords; bitter orange, civet, cumin and a somewhat rank patchouli, moderated by mint, oakmoss and cedar. I won't say the progression is smooth, but it is interesting. And the longevity is respectable.
Concentré goes on in a blast of bitter orange supported by bergamot and lemon. The citrus dominates about as long as citrus does - not very long - and as it starts to recede, I am certain I detect civet, although it is not listed in the notes. The civet-like accord fades into a blend of moss and cedar. After some time, another phantom note, cumin, becomes noticeable, and that then morphs into mint.
Here things stabilize, with traces of the bitter orange detectable in a bed of mint over the cedar and moss framework.
In the drydown phase, a surprisingly feral and leafy patchouli takes over; this is not a sweet hippie patchouli but something almost sinister in it pungency.
Although this fragrance has a reputation as being a light, refreshing summer scent, I found it has a progression of strong and unequivocal accords; bitter orange, civet, cumin and a somewhat rank patchouli, moderated by mint, oakmoss and cedar. I won't say the progression is smooth, but it is interesting. And the longevity is respectable.
Perfumer: Jean Guichard
Year: 2004
Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Jasmine, Neroli, Mint, Patchouli, Moss, Cedar
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