Chergui (Serge Lutens)


By Dane
If I had to guess, I'd say that Chergui is Serge Lutens' best selling fragrance. You rarely read a bad review and it often tops "best lists" all over the Internet. It's no surprise really, it is, in fact a stunning, original scent. Do I need a bottle though? No.

Lutens is the master of orientals. Syrupy, heavy, spiced concoctions seem to flow from his veins (it should be noted that SL only directs, the brilliant Christopher Sheldrake actually composes the scents). Chergui opens with a sweet, honeyed hay note. As it settles, a pronounced, spicy musk note emerges with more candied notes of tobacco and sandalwood. A dry iris accord and tarry leather blend elegantly with the other notes and subdue the sweetness.

All of this sounds great, right? Well, as I've mentioned in other reviews, I have a "thing" with amber. It overwhelms my senses and tends to ruin things for me. The medicinal aspects of amber take centre stage in Chergui, and while I try to focus on the other beautiful notes, it keeps pushing its way to the front like a drunk girl clawing her way to the front of the line at a club.

I REALLY tried to love this one, I really did! I so wanted to be part of the club and understand the addiction that is Chergui, but alas, I will have to stick with my beloved Iris Silver Mist and anxiously await the upcoming release, El Attarine.

UPDATE - I've been revisiting some of my old samples, and for some reason the dreaded amber isn't nearly as forceful as it once was. Not sure why that is, but I'm starting to warm up to Chergui and see what all the fuss was about. Again, do I need a bottle - no. Do I want one - yes.

Year: 2001
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
Notes: Honey, Musk, Leather, Incense, Tobacco Leaf, Hay Sugar, Amber, Iris, Rose, Sandalwood

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