Beyond Paradise for Men (Estee Lauder)


By Dane
In classical perfumery, it was more likely that any given fragrance would attempt to capture something in nature - a flower, a fruit, etc. Modern perfumery has moved on to a new stage. The current trend is to create a new flower (or fruit, or wood) that no one has ever encountered (see Comme des Garcons' 3). Beyond Paradise takes that point of view, but does it in a way that reinterprets and pays hommage to the classics in men's fragrance.

In the way that designers like Philippe Starck take period furniture pieces and update them by using new materials, Calice Becker has taken fan-favourites like Cool Water and Grey Flannel and updated them by using some of the cliched synthetics of the 70's, 80's, and 90's with current materials, and combining the best facets of various fragrances into one. Although Cool Water is a brilliant fragrance, associations (trauma) of highschool dances and sleazy club-goers keep me from wearing it. BP removes the stale, greasy hair and acne ointment aura that Cool Water captured so perfectly, and leaves only the fresh and captivating notes.

BP goes through three distinct phases on my skin. The first, a pleasant fruity citrus. The second, a Cool Water/Dihydromercenol accord that nods to the past. The third, a very nice mossy green accord with spices and patchouli.

I'm not sure I'd rate BP quite as high as some notable reviewers (notably more notable than I), but overall it's a great scent and brilliantly composed.

Year: 2004
Perfumer: Calice Becker
Notes: Eden's Mist, Jabuticaba Fruit, Eden Buchu, Lavender Absolute, Provence Sage, Tarragon, Thyme, Golden Melaleuca Bark, Eden Vetiver, Beach Wood, Oak Moss, Patchouli
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A special thanks to Tom for the inspiration

1 comments:

  1. Like Dane, I'm not quite so enamoured of BPM. There is a significant Venn diagram with Cool Water but, Dane cites a notable reviewer (if we're thinking of the same review) who sees BPM as a Corcorde flight chasing the sunrise. I felt more as though I was on a good charter aircraft having left an airport that had an above average duty-free shop.

    If BPM were a shirt - I'd say it was a slightly too baggy, colourful tee with a slogan writ large that everyone's already seen and heard and is vaguely embarrassing to everyone else but the oblivious wearer.

    That being said - it is beautifully composed; dense, rich and complex - but, for me, disappointingly sane.

    Check it out for yourself.
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