Reviewed by Mark
Yatagan's fearsome reputation precedes it. By the time I received a complementary sample from the Caron NY representative, along with the Tabac Blond I had ordered, I already harbored apprehensions about it.
I already knew that it is named for the Turkish curved sword, that it is a fierce and proud scent, not friendly or easily approachable, according to reviews both professional and amateur. I was mostly apprehensive, however, about the notorious celery note; I prefer my celery as a garnish in a Bloody Mary, not in a fragrance.
The threat of pine needles did not make things better, since that is another scent I do not care to wear on my person.
Even though I love leather scents, and do not shy away from fragrances merely because they are reputedly "difficult", this sample sat quietly in my sample box until the estimable Pere de Pierre himself expressed interest in it. Even then, it took a few days for me to commit to wearing it.
Upon application, I found it both true to its reputation and not as unpleasant as I feared. Though the bottle neck had a definite celery scent, I found it much different on skin. While celery is there (a little) and pine (a lot), it is not all that "green." The green is not the dry, bitter green of galbanum, nor the sweet-and-sour grassy green of vetiver, nor even the sweet piney green of Fou d'Absinthe, but an oily, brownish green, as if the pine needles were lightly sauteed to make them yield their oil.
The development during this wearing was tricky and confusing, as the pine needles would increase and decrease in intensity, and at one point it seemed I was wearing an altogether different fragrance, floral and a little aldehydic. I had been sitting in the sun for a while at the time of the floral phase and I did not even recognize the scent as coming from me until I sniffed my arm.
The drydown is very luxurious, rich and yes, leathery. This leather, however, is unlike any other I have smelled, as it seemed almost food-y, like a stew with a few pine needles in it. Sweet and savory aromas swirled together to great effect.
At this point it is necessary to acknowledge the current controversy over the alleged reformulation of Caron's entire line. Many long-time devotees feel that the entire line has been butchered, gutted, and reduced to pale ghosts of former glory. Sadly I have not smelled the originals and so cannot give a first-hand opinion. Based on the age and packaging of my sample, it appears what I have is the new version (assuming a reformulation did in fact occur.)
Having said that, Yatagan is (still) a formidable and unapologetically fierce fragrance. It is easy to see how someone could become devoted to it. It is one of the strangest things I have ever smelled.
I will look for a bottle in the old packaging.
Perfumer: Vincent Marcello
Year: 1976
Notes: Lavender, Wormwood, Petitgrain, Artemisia, Geranium, Pine Needles, Vetiver, Patchouli, Leather, Castoreum, Styrax.
