By Dane
I've never smelled an actual tuberose flower before. Apparently it's a strange, rubbery floral scent. One thing is for certain, perfumers LOVE to combine it with coconut. Don't get me wrong, the tuber-coco combo is a great one (see Carnal Flower or Beyond Love), but it's always come across as overly lush to me.
Tubereuse Criminelle is thus far the only tuberose love in my life. The topnotes are scary...you've been warned - metholated gasoline would be an accurate description. Once the topnotes fade though, you're left with a stunning, lush floral that somehow manages to escape the ever-so-creamy nature of the flower itself. While the heart of the fragrance is much less avante-garde than the opening, a little reminder of that camphor always remains in the background.
Lutens (through Sheldrake) has taken a lush, feminine smell and contrasted it with a harsh solvent. One of the best of the Lutens line and not to be missed.
UPDATE - good news! Tubereuse Criminelle has been added to the "export" line for us non-Parisian common folk, and I'm happy to report that it still smells terrific. There may have been a slight tweak over the years to the floral section of the scent, but overall it's just as shocking and wonderful as ever. Get it now before the edition runs out.
Year: 1999
Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake
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