New York (Parfums de Nicolaï)


by Mark


If I told you what it takes to reach the highest high
you'd laugh and say nothing's that simple
but you've been told many times before, messiahs pointed to the door
no one had the guts to leave the temple
- I'm Free, The Who

New York is a consummately elegant and classical composition by Patricia de Nicolaï, the grand-daughter of Pierre Guerlain.

It opens with a burst of heady citrus, slightly spiced with clove, cinnamon and pepper. The citrus fades, as citrus does, and a vegetal thyme-laced accord takes over. This too moves on after a short while, and an unusual creamy-and-spicy accord holds sway. The use of pimento here is the first classic Guerlain trick; the veil drops completely a few hours later, when New York does a pretty good impersonation of Habit Rouge. Eventually, vetiver and oakmoss take the stage and perform a pas de deux, and after a long while, the lights dim and the performance is over.

Chameleon-like in the sense of having distinct but smoothly linked phases, this fragrance is also like a big cat, sleek, powerful, beautiful, with no extraneous parts and no wasted movements. The ingredients are rich, the accords beautifully blended. It is probably only the classical (and therefore, to some, dated) construction of this fragrance that keeps it from being on more top ten lists.

Perfumer: Patricia de Nicolaï
Year: 1989
Notes: bergamot, Sicilian lemon, cloves, thyme, cinnamon, black pepper, pimento, oak moss, vetiver, amber (via luckyscent.com)

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