by Mark
Fans of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory may remember the Everlasting Gobstopper, a jawbreaker (gobstopper in the Queen's English) that lasts forever. Nestlé now owns rights to the name and produces an eponymous candy. The Nestlé version does not last forever but it does change flavor, an idea apparently borrowed from the "full meal" gum Willy Wonka was working on. Labdanum 18 is something like Nestlé's Everlasting Gobstopper.
On first application, Labdanum 18 smells like the late drydown of something gourmand, with sweet, smoky, resinous labdanum, vanilla and a hint of cinnamon. In only a few minutes, though, the smoke clears, leaving a very powdery vanilla.
After a while, the powder in turn subsides, revealing civet; at this stage, the civet and vanilla accord is reminiscent of a leaner, less floral Parfum Sacré. It would be negligent not to note also the similarity to Roucel's earlier creation for Frederic Malle, Musc Ravageur.
Just when one is getting used to this version, the scene suddenly changes to chocolate and musk. Not long after that, the patchouli comes on, and the fragrance hovers in an olfactory space between Shalimar and Borneo 1834.
In the drydown, the smoky qualities of labdanum reappear. The patchouli is amped up, and musk, balsam and tonka round out the vanilla for a warm, velvety finale. One can almost imagine oneself swelling up into a big, furry ball of labdanum resin, à la Violet Beauregarde, but much happier.
On first application, Labdanum 18 smells like the late drydown of something gourmand, with sweet, smoky, resinous labdanum, vanilla and a hint of cinnamon. In only a few minutes, though, the smoke clears, leaving a very powdery vanilla.
After a while, the powder in turn subsides, revealing civet; at this stage, the civet and vanilla accord is reminiscent of a leaner, less floral Parfum Sacré. It would be negligent not to note also the similarity to Roucel's earlier creation for Frederic Malle, Musc Ravageur.
Just when one is getting used to this version, the scene suddenly changes to chocolate and musk. Not long after that, the patchouli comes on, and the fragrance hovers in an olfactory space between Shalimar and Borneo 1834.
In the drydown, the smoky qualities of labdanum reappear. The patchouli is amped up, and musk, balsam and tonka round out the vanilla for a warm, velvety finale. One can almost imagine oneself swelling up into a big, furry ball of labdanum resin, à la Violet Beauregarde, but much happier.
Perfumer: Maurice Roucel
Year: 2006
Notes: Cistus Labdanum, Civet, Castoreum, Musk Aubepine, Vanilla, Birch Tar, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Gurjaum Balsam, Tonka Bean.
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