
By Dane
Poor Derby has had some tough breaks. Originally released in 1985, then re-released in a different bottle in 1988, and again re-released in yet another new bottle as part of the upscale Les Parisiennes collection, only to be pulled off the shelves once again. Derby wouldn't be considered Guerlain's best effort at marketing.
Derby is, however, an absolute masterpiece by Jean-Paul Guerlain. Opening with a slightly powdery balsamic note, highlighted with bergamot and mint, Derby works its way into a stunning, smoky leather. In general, leather fragrances are fairly brash and in-your-face, but floral nuances in Derby keep the level of noise at an intimate level. In the typical Guerlain manner, oakmoss soon shows up with other earthy notes like patchouli and vetiver in the base.
In a way, Derby was one of the biggest mistake Guerlain has made with its men's fragrances. Something of pure genius was created, but wasted by not marketing it like its other offerings (Habit Rouge, Vetiver).
Derby has once again been discontinued, allegedly due to restrictions on its ingredients. Such a shame.
Year: 1985
Perfumer: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Poor Derby has had some tough breaks. Originally released in 1985, then re-released in a different bottle in 1988, and again re-released in yet another new bottle as part of the upscale Les Parisiennes collection, only to be pulled off the shelves once again. Derby wouldn't be considered Guerlain's best effort at marketing.
Derby is, however, an absolute masterpiece by Jean-Paul Guerlain. Opening with a slightly powdery balsamic note, highlighted with bergamot and mint, Derby works its way into a stunning, smoky leather. In general, leather fragrances are fairly brash and in-your-face, but floral nuances in Derby keep the level of noise at an intimate level. In the typical Guerlain manner, oakmoss soon shows up with other earthy notes like patchouli and vetiver in the base.
In a way, Derby was one of the biggest mistake Guerlain has made with its men's fragrances. Something of pure genius was created, but wasted by not marketing it like its other offerings (Habit Rouge, Vetiver).
Derby has once again been discontinued, allegedly due to restrictions on its ingredients. Such a shame.
Year: 1985
Perfumer: Jean-Paul Guerlain