by Mark
Chanel's Cuir de Russie opens with a burst of aldehydic floral and citrus notes. Beaux's trademark accord of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang is a thing of timeless beauty, of extraordinary depth and clarity.
As the fireworks of the citrus slowly fall, one becomes aware of the animalic leather and civet clinging underneath the flowers. The purity of the bouquet and the profanity of the animalic earth in which they grow are yang and yin; their wedding is inevitable and absolute.
At the end of the night, with the flowers fading, the flapper alights from her cab. Her heels click-clack to her door; she opens it, and striding in, peels off her leather gloves. She turns on the heat, shrugs off her stole, and flounces onto her divan while kicking off her shoes. She is ready to receive her lover, who, having paid the cab, now follows her through the door.
As the fireworks of the citrus slowly fall, one becomes aware of the animalic leather and civet clinging underneath the flowers. The purity of the bouquet and the profanity of the animalic earth in which they grow are yang and yin; their wedding is inevitable and absolute.
At the end of the night, with the flowers fading, the flapper alights from her cab. Her heels click-clack to her door; she opens it, and striding in, peels off her leather gloves. She turns on the heat, shrugs off her stole, and flounces onto her divan while kicking off her shoes. She is ready to receive her lover, who, having paid the cab, now follows her through the door.
Perfumer: Ernest Beaux, Jacques Polge
Year: 1924, 1983
Notes: orange blossom, bergamot, mandarin, clary sage; iris, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, cedarwood, vetiver; styrax, leather, amber, vanilla.
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