Black (Bvlgari)


by Mark
When I took film history, it was with great reverence that my professor introduced Sergei Eisenstein's Battleship Potemkin. This film, heralded as one of the greatest and most influential films of all time, pioneered the use of montage and was also considered extraordinarily violent for its time. The depth of my boredom while watching the film was the most shocking thing about it; it seemed to be hilariously clunky and hamfisted. It was years before I appreciated how revolutionary it was.

Likewise, I was a bit disappointed when I first wore the notoriously weird Bvlgari Black; my first impression was that it was Dzing! Lite, which is funny because Black was introduced first. The rubber note of Bvlgari seemed to me to be a lot like the cardboard note some people pick up in Dzing!

Subsequent wearings, though, have changed my mind, and I now see that Black is in fact an original and avant-garde fragrance.

Although the main accord is said to be based on black tea, I, and most reviewers, find the opening to be much closer to burning rubber and gasoline. When I first heard about this, I wondered who in the world, besides Danica Patrick and her cohort, would want to smell like that? As it so happens, though, it is a surprisingly invigorating and stimulating scent as it appears here.

The more volatile part burns off gradually and vanilla assumes the central role. As time goes on, the vanilla becomes more powdery, and is joined with woods and a hint of leather. While the vanilla sometimes seems a bit too sweet, there is always a little trace of the rubber - or tea, I suppose - to keep it from going overboard.

The bottle is itself avant-garde in design; it is often called "the hockey puck", and the resemblance is there, but one must also acknowledge the resemblance to an automobile tire in light of the burning rubber accord. The spray mechanism rotates between an off and on position, and is unfortunately prone to breakage. Recently I have seen bottles with a standard spray head; Bvlgari may have discontinued the problematic on-off switch.

Perfumer: Annick Ménardo
Year: 1998
Notes: Lapsang Souchong Tea, Smoke, Rubber, Resin, Amber, Wood

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